Nuohei Village in Shilin County, Kunming
Location and Accessibility
Nuohei Village (糯黑村) is located in Guishan Town (圭山镇), Shilin Yi Autonomous County (石林彝族自治县), Kunming City (昆明市), Yunnan Province (云南省). It lies 4 kilometers west of the town’s government, with a well-paved road providing easy access, only 32 kilometers from the county seat. To the east, it borders Haiyi Village Committee (海邑村委会), to the south is Yizheng Village Committee (宜政村委会), to the west is Yusheng Village Committee (雨胜村委会), and to the north is E Chong Yi Village Committee (额冲衣村委会). The village comprises two groups: Big Nuohei (大糯黑) and Small Nuohei (小糯黑).
If you’re planning your Kunming Ethnic Villages Tour, visiting Nuohei Village is a must. It offers a glimpse into the local folk culture, including history, food, clothing, customs, architecture, festivals, crafts, religion, and language of the Sani ethnic group.
Unique Features of Nuohei Village
Stepping into Nuohei Village, adjacent to the world-renowned Stone Forest (石林), you’ll encounter an authentic stone realm. The village’s residences and utensils are largely constructed from natural limestone, evident in the roofs, walls, tobacco kilns, stables, grinding mills, gates, and roads. Some of these stone houses are over a century old, captivating explorers with their history.
Nuohei Village is situated in a karst geographical area, where locals utilize nearby natural resources. After extracting limestone, villagers create slabs for paving roads or constructing homes. Historically, the forebears of Nuohei selected flat areas in the rocky mountains for construction, with enough stones unearthed from building foundations to construct entire homes.
The architecture features wooden and stone elements, with most families having a main house (three rooms) and a side house (two wing rooms). Vibrant ancient trees and bamboo groves surround each home.
Nuohei’s artistic appeal has drawn many art students for outdoor painting, making it a haven for creativity.
Culinary Experience
As Nuohei becomes increasingly recognized, many villagers have opened restaurants, such as Cengshi Villa (层石别墅), Sitongyuan (四通苑), Yulanyuan (雨兰苑), Luosonghang (罗松行), Lijiayuan (李家院), and Family Wang’s Compound (王家院). Here, you can indulge in traditional Sani dishes.
Historical Context
Nuohei Village was established in the 21st year (1816) of the Jiaqing Reign (嘉庆) of the Qing Dynasty (清朝) and served as a pass for horse caravans from Luxi (泸西) to Kunming. During the warlord era in the 1920s, villagers built stone walls and gates to protect against banditry.
Old villagers recall that near the entrance to the Mizhi Holy Forest (密枝神林), there were two steles detailing the village’s history, which were unfortunately destroyed during the Cultural Revolution (文化大革命).
In July 2009, the 16th Congress of the International Union of Anthropological and Ethnological Sciences was held in Kunming, during which approximately 130 experts visited Nuohei Village.
The Mizhi Festival (密枝节)
95% of the villagers are members of the Sani ethnic group. Each lunar November, they celebrate the Mizhi Festival, exclusively attended by men. The festival lasts between three to seven days, with dates varying among different branches of the Yi people.
Mizhi Forest, regarded as a “sacred forest,” is a revered place for the Sani people. During the festival, men gather to select a Mizhiweng (密枝翁), who oversees the ceremonies, while women stay indoors.
The ceremony requires a white goat, rooster, and pig, and the Mizhiweng assigns tasks to participants. Following ancient traditions, the Bimo (彝族祭司) leads eligible men to the Mizhi Forest to find the holy Mizhi Tree. They carry the Mizhi God to the priest’s home for a ceremonial cleansing before returning it to the forest the next day.
Throughout the festival, the priest and men tour the village, publicly addressing misbehaviors. The Mizhi God is believed to protect the Sani people, with various folklores surrounding the festival.
Travel Tips
- Accessibility: Nuohei Village is located 4 km from the local council of Kuishan Town and 30 km from Shilin County. It is also 25 km from the Stone Forest.
- Travel Services: You can contact local travel services in Kunming to arrange tours to the Stone Forest and Nuohei Village.
Geography and Environment
Nuohei Village is situated in a karst development area characterized by rocky mountains. The locals traditionally extract stones following the natural patterns to create slabs for construction. The village features closed stone-wood architecture, with vibrant red-painted timber used for beams, doors, and windows. The outer walls are made of stone slabs, while the roofs are tiled with flat and cylindrical tiles.
Most homes have two stories, featuring three main rooms and two wing rooms. The village overlooks the famous Laoguishan (老圭山) and is surrounded by lush green mountains. Nearly every household boasts ancient trees and bamboo groves, creating a picturesque environment.
Demographics and Culture
Nuohei Village maintains a pure Sani culture, with over 600 villagers—only 25 Han and 1 Zhuang, all of whom speak Yi. The Sani people celebrate their traditions, embodying simplicity and warmth.
The village celebrates the Mizhi Festival, a significant occasion for prayer and offerings to ensure prosperity. The villagers gather to perform sacred rituals during the day, and at night, they express their moral values and denounce wrongdoing.
A round stage made of stones is constructed for performances during festivals, where traditional Sani dances, especially the lively Sanxian Dance (大三弦舞), take place, fostering a spirit of community and celebration.
Notable Historical Events
Nuohei Village dates back to 1816, originally serving as a horse caravan stop. To safeguard the village during conflicts, locals constructed defensive walls and watchtowers. Historical records engraved in Yi and Han scripts were once present at the village’s entrance but were lost during the Cultural Revolution.
Walking through Nuohei, you can feel the remnants of history, as the stone houses tell tales of the past through the stories shared by the elders.
Shopping Opportunities
- Wax Dyeing: This traditional hand-dyeing craft is prevalent in Yunnan’s minority regions. Prices for a piece of wax-dyed fabric are approximately 15 RMB.
- Magnolia Flowers: Before blooming, the buds resemble the tip of a brush and can be used in medicine. Magnolia pancakes, made with the flowers, cost around 70 RMB each.
Getting There
To reach Nuohei Village, take a minibus from Kunming Juhua Village Bus Station to Shilin County (10 RMB), and then transfer to a microbus near the Ashima Movie Theater in the county (5 RMB).
With its rich cultural heritage and stunning landscapes, Nuohei Village is a delightful destination for anyone exploring the ethnic diversity of Yunnan Province.
