Mouni Temple in Binchuan County, Dali
Introduction
Mouni Temple (牟尼庵) is located on a small ridge west of Zhusheng Temple (祝圣寺) in Jizu Mountain (鸡足山), Binchuan County (宾川县), Yunnan Province (云南省). Situated at an altitude of under 3,248 meters, it faces the Yulong Waterfall (玉龙瀑布) to the south and a mountain stream to the west. Due to its strategic location, Mouni Temple has historically been a crucial stop for pilgrims heading to the Yulong Waterfall and those ascending the mountain for worship. This significance is reflected in many ancient travel writings about Jizu Mountain, where terms like “teahouse” or “Mouni Temple” are frequently mentioned.
Historical Background
During the Ming Dynasty (明代), specifically in the Jiajing era (嘉靖年间), a monk named Yang Shen (杨慎) resided in the temple and decided to live there permanently to compile the “Jizu Mountain Chronicle” (鸡足山志). Unfortunately, the temple suffered a fire, destroying his manuscript, which led Yang to write a poem on the wall before leaving the mountain.
Other notable temples nearby include Taizi Pavilion (太子阁), Shizhong Temple (石钟寺), Jiguan Temple (寂光寺), Shengfeng Temple (圣峰寺), Huayan Temple (华严寺), Chuan Yi Temple (传衣寺), Dajue Temple (大觉寺), Sitian Temple (悉檀寺), Longhua Temple (龙华寺), Sanmo Temple (三摩寺), Lei Yin Temple (雷音寺), Biyun Temple (碧云寺), Fangguang Temple (放光寺), Nianhua Temple (拈花寺), Mile Courtyard (弥勒院), Zunsheng Pagoda Courtyard (尊胜塔院), Yuanjing Temple (圆净庵), Fayun Courtyard (法云院), Dazhi Temple (大智庵), Bajiao Temple (八角庵), Shuiyue Temple (水月庵), Guanyin Pavilion (观音阁), and Dabeige (大悲阁).
Mouni Temple’s Historical Significance
According to historical records, during the Jiajing era, a monk noticed many pilgrims to the waterfall suffering from thirst. He built a thatched hut on the ridge to provide tea, earning the nickname “teahouse.” After a fire destroyed it, a man named Yang Zhou (杨周) rebuilt it as Mouni Temple and appointed a monk named Zhikong (智空) as the abbot, leading to its current name.
Local legends suggest that the site of Mouni Temple resembled a round seal, marking where Shakyamuni Buddha (释迦牟尼佛) once meditated. As a result, the temple was naturally named Mouni Temple. Two significant Ming Dynasty travelogues reference the “teahouse”: one by the renowned scholar Li Yuanyang (李元阳) titled “Journey to Jizu Mountain” (游鸡足山记) and another by Zhou Fuyun (周复俊), an official from Jiangsu Province (江苏省), also titled “Journey to Jizu Mountain.”
In 1639, renowned traveler Xu Xiake (徐霞客) visited Jizu Mountain and noted Mouni Temple multiple times, solidifying its place in history.
A notable story related to Mouni Temple recounts the unfortunate event when Yang Shen was exiled for offending the Jiajing Emperor. While waiting for a friend at the teahouse, it caught fire, destroying his writings. He lamented this loss in a poem left on the remaining wall:
“方知太古淳然在，自悔文章一画多。漫拨雪中消焰烬，寻思议礼竟如何？”
(May I realize that the essence of ancient times endures, yet regret that my writings were lost. How should I contemplate ritual amidst the ashes of this burnt snow?)
Over the years, Mouni Temple has faced multiple fires but has been rebuilt each time. The government allocated funds for restoration in 1952 and 1963. However, it faced total destruction during the Cultural Revolution (文化大革命). Today, only two simple houses remain, with the main hall yet to be restored.
Despite its challenges, a unique tree known as Mouni Cypress (牟尼柏) has survived. This tree, also known as Sanhui Cypress (三会柏), features three distinct trunks, each sprouting three types of leaves: flat-leaved cypress, round-leaved cypress, and needle-leaved cypress. Despite various attempts to cultivate it, botanists have not succeeded. The age of this remarkable tree remains unknown.
How to Get There
To reach Mouni Temple in Binchuan County, travelers can fly to Dali Airport (大理机场) and then take a bus or taxi to Jizu Mountain. From the base of Jizu Mountain, local transport options or hiking trails can guide you to Mouni Temple.
Travel Tips
- Best Time to Visit: The ideal seasons for visiting are spring and autumn when the weather is pleasant.
- Preparation: Bring sufficient water, as the temple is a hiking destination, and facilities may be limited.
- Respect Local Customs: As a pilgrimage site, visitors should maintain a respectful demeanor and adhere to local customs.
- Photography: Capture the breathtaking scenery, but be mindful of other visitors and the spiritual atmosphere.
