Naxi Shawls in Lijiang

The Naxi shawl, known as “披星戴月” (Pī Xīng Dài Yuè) in Chinese, is a distinctive and culturally significant part of Naxi women’s traditional attire in Lijiang. This unique shawl symbolizes the hard – working nature of Naxi women, who are known for their early rising and late – retiring habits. The shawl features a rectangular or square – shaped design with a round – bottomed appearance. It is adorned with seven embroidered circular patches, each with a pair of tassels, representing the seven stars of the Big Dipper. This design is said to symbolize the idea of “shouldering the sun and moon, and carrying the stars on the back”.

The origin of the Naxi shawl is rooted in a legend. According to the story, in ancient times, a fierce drought demon released multiple suns that scorched the earth. A brave Naxi girl named Yīng Gǔ (英古) fought against the demon for nine days until she collapsed and died. The local deity Sān Duō (三多神) honored her bravery by turning the seven suns into seven shining stars and embedding them in her clothing. Since then, Naxi women have incorporated this star – and – moon pattern into their shawls to commemorate Yīng Gǔ’s courage and diligence.

The Naxi shawl is typically made from high – quality sheepskin, which is durable and warm. The upper part of the shawl is sewn with two large circular patches, representing the sun and the moon. The seven embroidered circular patches at the bottom, each with two white tassels, symbolize the Big Dipper. These intricate designs are often embroidered with colorful threads, showcasing the Naxi people’s exquisite craftsmanship and aesthetic taste.

In recent years, the traditional Naxi shawl has been adapted into modern forms. Some local designers have transformed the “披星戴月” pattern into silver jewelry, featuring a large round disc representing the moon, connected by silver chains to seven smaller discs representing the stars. This innovation has given new life to the traditional design, making it more accessible to contemporary audiences.

The Naxi shawl is not only a symbol of Naxi culture but also an important part of China’s intangible cultural heritage. In 2009, the “Naxi ethnic costumes” project, including the shawl, was listed as part of Yunnan Province’s second batch of intangible cultural heritage protection items. This recognition has helped to preserve and promote the traditional craftsmanship and cultural significance of the Naxi shawl.

The Naxi shawl is a beautiful and meaningful part of Naxi culture, reflecting the history, beliefs, and craftsmanship of the Naxi people. It continues to be an important symbol of their identity and heritage.