HuidengAn Temple of Cangshan Mountain in Dali City
Huideng An Temple (慧灯庵) is located approximately 850 meters below Jinding Temple (金顶寺) in Dali City (大理市), Yunnan Province (云南省). Nestled against Tianzhufeng (天柱峰) and facing the majestic mountains, the temple offers a broad view and serves as a starting point for climbing Jinding. Situated to the west of Mile Courtyard (弥勒院) and behind Kasyapa Hall (迦叶殿), the temple was first established as a dwelling by monk Hongping (洪平) during the Ming Dynasty (明) and was later constructed into a temple during the Chongzhen period (崇祯).
Main Buildings and Environment
The temple complex features significant structures, including the Mahavira Hall (大雄宝殿), meditation hall (禅堂), guest hall (客堂), and mountain gate (山门). The courtyard is adorned with flowers and trees, with the sound of a trickling spring enhancing the serene atmosphere. In 1985, the State Council and the Religious Affairs Bureau allocated funds to renovate the Mahavira Hall, Abbot’s Room (方丈室), and other facilities, covering a total area of 993 square meters. The main hall is designed in a five-bay, double-eaved style, with pointed corners resembling a palace. Inside, statues of Shakyamuni Buddha (释迦佛) and the revered figures of Bodhidharma (达摩) and Guan Yu (关羽) can be found.
According to Buddhist legend, during the Three Kingdoms period, General Guan Yunlong (关云长) of Shu died and received a precept from the monk Zhizhi on Mount Tiantai (天台), where he learned Zen from Master Shenxiu (神秀). The statue is adorned with gold leaf, shining brilliantly and exuding a dignified aura. The temple’s courtyard is lush with greenery, and behind it stands a 250-year-old ancient tea tree (古茶). Many visitors stop here to rest before their ascent.
Historical Development
Huideng An Temple is situated at the foot of Tianzhufeng (天柱峰) and faces the path to the summit. Historical records indicate that in 1605 (Ming Wanli, 乙巳), monk Hongping established a hermitage here. By 1634 (Chongzhen, 甲戌), his disciple Puxian (普现) initiated fundraising to expand the temple. In 1692 (Qing Kangxi, 壬申), monk Zonghai (宗海) again raised funds for renovations.
Scenic Views
From the car window, one can see the post-rain Chicken Foot Mountain (鸡足山) shrouded in clouds, with lush green cliffs reaching the sky. At the foot of the mountain, small bridges and flowing streams are framed by green trees and traditional houses with white walls and blue tiles. The scene is reminiscent of a paradise, especially with the sounds of roosters and barking dogs adding to the atmosphere.
The bell at the mountain gate rings softly, and the calligraphy “Ling Shan Yi Hui” (灵山一会) by Mr. Zhao Puchu (赵朴初) can be seen overhead. At this moment, we stand in the sacred place of Kasyapa, reflecting on the historical Ling Shan meeting, where the Buddha smiled while holding a flower, and Kasyapa understood without words—an exquisite Zen moment.
Journey to the Temple
Starting from Jiulian Temple (九莲寺), the car winds up through the mountains to Wanshou An (万寿庵) at the waist of the mountain. The air is fresh and moist, and the tall trees offer shade, making the atmosphere slightly cool yet refreshing. The Zhusheng Temple (祝圣寺), built by Master Xuyun (虚云法师), lies hidden among the tall trees not far from Wanshou An. Looking up towards the summit, the clouds roll and the mountain views reveal themselves, with Kasyapa’s meditative portal enveloped in auspicious energy.
Climbing Experience
Initially, we planned to travel light for our ascent, but due to the allure of comforts, we brought along musical instruments and tea, making the horses carry our burdens. Our luggage set off ahead, allowing us to start our journey leisurely. The nearby Biyun Temple (碧云寺) has been under construction since my first visit three years ago. The main hall, reflecting Tang-style architecture, is nearly completed and has begun to radiate solemnity.
Following the stone steps leading into the clouds, Huideng An is now in sight, and Fanguang Temple (放光寺) is not far off. The path from Huideng An to Fanguang Temple lacks smooth stone pavement; we tread on fallen leaves, guided by markers in the original dense forest. The famous tree flowers and frog skins of Chicken Foot Mountain, typically found in primitive forests, are in abundance, once the main food of the Yunnan golden monkey (滇西金丝猴).
Fanguang Temple, located directly beneath the Hua Shou Men (华首门) of Chicken Foot Mountain, is named for its luminous nightlight, a sight witnessed by a meditative monk. Although it was once damaged, only ruins remain today. Over a decade ago, Master Cifa (慈法法师) established a dwelling here to practice Pure Land Buddhism, advocating for the recitation of mantras and maintaining strict rules. Though many monks and lay practitioners now visit, the temple maintains its simplicity and spirit of practice, with morning bells and evening drums resonating throughout the day.
Accommodations and Daily Life
Due to the holiday season and the upcoming retreat, the temple is crowded. Our male group was fortunate to sleep at the feet of the Buddha in the Mahavira Hall, while the females rested in the guest hall of Hengyang An (恒阳庵). We awoke at 4:30 AM for morning prayers and had breakfast at 7:30 AM. Afterward, under the guidance of several monks, we transported logs for the new temple gate—a memorable experience despite the challenges.
Aside from special occasions like Buddha’s Joy Day, the temple observes the rule of not eating after noon. At midday, we arrived for lunch, but after 1 PM, only water was permitted until dawn the next day.
From any part of Fanguang Temple, one can admire Kasyapa’s portal of meditation. The Golden Summit (金顶) stands just above this gate, with the white pagoda pointing to the sky. My greatest joy during previous visits to Fanguang Temple was sitting in a rattan chair at the guest hall, watching the clouds drift and the sun set. However, due to various circumstances, we couldn’t stay long, and before dark, our group moved to the final rest stop before the summit: Huideng An.
How to Get There
To reach Huideng An Temple, you can fly to Dali Airport (大理机场) and then take a taxi or a local bus to the Dali Cangshan Mountain Scenic Area (大理苍山风景区). From there, you can hike up to the temple, which is about a 30-minute walk from the nearest parking area.
Travel Tips
- Best Time to Visit: Spring and autumn offer mild weather and beautiful scenery.
- What to Bring: Comfortable hiking shoes, water, snacks, and a camera for the stunning views.
- Respect the Environment: Follow local guidelines and maintain cleanliness in the temple and surrounding areas.
- Cultural Awareness: Be mindful of the local customs and practices, especially in sacred areas.
- Accommodation: Consider staying at nearby guesthouses or lodges to fully enjoy the spiritual atmosphere.
