Lingguan Temple of Weibao Mountain in Weishan County, Dali
Introduction
Lingguan Temple (灵官殿) is a significant Taoist temple dedicated to Lingguan (灵官), the most revered protective deity in Taoism. The temple is also known by another name, Zhujun Pavilion (主君阁), and is situated at the foothills of Weibao Mountain (巍宝山) in Weishan County (巍山), Dali (大理), Yunnan Province (云南省).
The temple was established during the late Ming Dynasty (明末) and early Qing Dynasty (清初). However, it was destroyed during the Second Opium War in the years 1851-1874 and was later rebuilt during the Guangxu period (光绪年间, 1875-1908). Inside the temple, there was originally a bronze statue of Wang Lingguan (王灵官), weighing over 200 kilograms, but it was destroyed, and the current statue is a clay sculpture painted with bright colors.
A couplet hangs on the temple’s columns, which reads: “莫谓霹雳一声，若遇那贪官污吏，管教尔粉身碎骨；须知威灵有赫，果然是忠臣孝子，定许他增福延年。” This couplet was inscribed by Ling Yuying (岭毓英), the governor of Yunnan during the Qing Dynasty, and reflects the temple’s moral teachings.
Historical Significance
Lingguan Temple serves as a vital cultural landmark. It is unique in its layout, being a standalone structure rather than being part of a larger complex typically found in Taoist temples. It is aligned with the Yuhuang Pavilion (玉皇阁) along the same axis, establishing Lingguan Temple as the entrance to the sacred site.
The temple has been a place for worship and spiritual reflection for centuries. In its early days, it housed a spectacular bronze statue of Wang Lingguan, which was impressive due to its size and craftsmanship. Unfortunately, the statue was lost during the Great Leap Forward in 1958. The current statue is a clay figure with a red face and three eyes, depicting Lingguan’s fierce and protective nature. Another significant figure in the temple is Prince Ling (炳灵太子), also known as Huaguang Dadi (华光大帝), who is considered a unique deity in southern Taoism and is popularly referred to as the “Fire God” among the locals.
The Ancient Camellia Trees
The temple grounds are home to ancient camellia trees, specifically the “Guiye Yin Hong” (桂叶银红) variety. Two of these trees were planted during the late Ming Dynasty, and now only one remains. This ancient camellia stands approximately 16 to 17 meters tall and has a diameter of about 15 centimeters, making it the tallest camellia tree in the world today. In spring, the tree blooms with hundreds of large, red flowers, resembling a cloud of rosy mist when viewed from afar. This spectacular sight has earned it the title of “Shancha Liuhong” (山茶流红), celebrated by ancient poets.
An ancient poem by the Suzhou scholar Chen Quanyu (陈全钰) praises the beauty of this camellia tree: “丛深春藏不闻莺，露下啼妆别有情，可惜琼葩因僻远，分心馨口独含颦。” This poem beautifully captures the shy and exquisite nature of the “Guiye Jiu Xin Shiba Ban” (桂叶九心十八瓣) camellia.
Features of the Camellia Tree
The ancient camellia tree, located within the temple grounds at an elevation of 2,283 meters, is protected due to its significant age and beauty. It has a grayish-white trunk that is round and straight, standing resilient despite centuries of wind and rain.
According to inscriptions at the pavilion, the tree was originally found deep within a forest. During the late Ming and early Qing Dynasties, it was transplanted to the temple, where it has thrived for approximately 400 years. It reaches a height that exceeds the roof of the temple, blooming vibrantly with red flowers that illuminate the entire structure during the flowering season.
The blooming period lasts about 60 days, with the first flowers appearing in mid-January, reaching full bloom in February, and finishing by early March. The best viewing spot for these flowers is on the observation platform behind the temple, where visitors can gaze at the stunning display of camellias.
Discovery and Conservation Efforts
In 1984, landscape engineers Li Duowen (李多闻) and plant specialist Xia Quan (夏泉) surveyed the area and discovered the ancient camellia tree in bloom. At that time, the tree stood at 17.5 meters high, with a chest diameter of 36 centimeters. Due to its beauty and rarity, there were plans to cut it down for timber. However, local researchers rushed to the county government to report the situation, prompting immediate action for its protection.
In 1989, Xia Quansheng published a paper documenting Yunnan’s camellias, listing this tree as the tallest cultivated camellia in the world. In 2008, experts from the International Camellia Society confirmed it as the tallest camellia tree globally during a visit to Weibao Mountain, with notable botanist Grigory Davis praising it as “the most beautiful camellia tree in the world.”
Recent Challenges and Recovery
Despite its past glory, the ancient camellia tree has faced significant health issues since the spring of 2016. The number of flowers dramatically decreased, and symptoms such as leaf drop and bark shedding became apparent. In March 2017, local forestry officials reported the tree’s declining condition, prompting immediate attention from the Weishan County government and the China Wild Plant Protection Association.
Experts determined that the tree’s age and declining resilience, along with severe pest infestations and poor soil drainage, were the main factors in its health issues. An urgent treatment plan was put in place, which included supporting the tree with scaffolding, treating it for pests, and improving soil conditions.
After five years of care, the tree has shown signs of recovery, with new growth appearing, and it has begun to bloom again, bringing back the breathtaking sight of “Shancha Liuhong” (山茶流红).
How to Get There
To reach Lingguan Temple of Weibao Mountain in Weishan County, Dali, visitors can take the following routes:
- By Car: From Dali City, take National Highway 214 towards Weishan County. The temple is approximately a one-hour drive from Dali.
- Public Transportation: Buses are available from Dali to Weishan County. Visitors can take a taxi or local transportation from Weishan to the temple.
Travel Tips
- Best Time to Visit: The ideal time to see the camellias in bloom is from mid-January to early March.
- What to Bring: Bring a camera to capture the stunning floral displays and a notebook to jot down thoughts and inspirations from the serene environment.
- Respect Local Customs: Be mindful of the temple’s religious significance and follow any guidelines for visitors regarding photography and behavior.
- Guided Tours: Consider hiring a local guide for a more enriching experience and deeper understanding of the temple’s history and cultural significance.
