Small Bowl Brown Sugar in Zhaotong
Small Bowl Brown Sugar in Zhaotong(巧家小碗红糖), also known as “碗碗糖” (Bowl Sugar), is produced in the riverside areas of the Jinsha River in Qiaojia County (巧家县). The sugar is made from high-quality local sugarcane and processed using traditional techniques. It is considered an intangible cultural heritage of Yunnan and has been well-known in the domestic market since the late Qing Dynasty. Especially loved by the Tibetan, Yi, and other ethnic groups in provinces like Qinghai, Tibet, Sichuan, and Yunnan.
Introduction
Small Bowl Brown Sugar is known by the local people as “Bowl Sugar” (碗碗糖). It is produced along the Jinsha River in Qiaojia County (巧家县), Yunnan, using local high-quality sugarcane and traditional craftsmanship. This brown sugar has been recognized as an intangible cultural heritage of Yunnan Province. Since the late Qing Dynasty, it has been highly praised in domestic markets, particularly by ethnic groups in Tibet, Sichuan, Qinghai, and Yunnan.
During a national meeting after the founding of the People’s Republic of China, a representative from the Tibet Autonomous Region directly asked Premier Zhou Enlai to ensure a steady supply of Qiaojia Small Bowl Brown Sugar to Tibet. In the 1940s, books such as China’s Local Special Products and Yunnan’s Local Specialty Flavor Guide listed it as one of the finest brown sugars in the region, particularly noting its quality and popularity. According to China’s Local Special Products (中国土特产大全), Qiaojia Small Bowl Brown Sugar, alongside the sugar from Mile County (弥勒县), was praised for its excellent quality, bright color, and minimal impurities, and was well-known throughout the province, even reaching regions like Qinghai and Tibet.
Production Process
Small Bowl Brown Sugar is produced in a traditional workshop manner, with a focus on manual labor and craftsmanship. There is a division of labor among the workers, each with a unique title and role in the production process. The entire production process is reminiscent of a long, unfolding folk tradition.
Workshop Requirements
To open a sugar workshop, certain equipment and space are necessary:
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A spacious area of 4 to 5 acres for storing sugarcane and drying the cane residue, known as the cane field (蔗场).
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4 to 5 rooms for production and the accommodation of workers.
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A sugar press machine, which includes large rolls made from iron, stone, or wood.
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Six water buffaloes for pulling the sugar press in shifts.
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A “cow-tail stove” (牛尾灶) with five large sugar boiling pots, each around 90 to 100 cm in diameter.
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Two ceramic sugar pots and over 2,000 small sugar bowls.
During the Republic of China era, opening a sugar workshop required an investment of thousands of silver dollars. The workshops usually operated under contract, processing sugarcane on behalf of landowners for a fee. The sugar extraction process typically started in the late lunar month of winter and ended by the Qingming Festival of the following year.
Workers
The master craftsmen, known as the “Three Masters” (三大师), are key to the production process:
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The Press Worker (榨匠)
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The Sugar Maker (糖匠)
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The Large Firehead (大火头)
In addition to these three main roles, other workers have specialized tasks such as:
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Knife Worker (刀刀匠), responsible for cutting and transporting sugarcane.
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Cow Tail Worker (牛毛尖), responsible for preparing the ends of sugarcane for use in packaging or as fodder for the buffaloes.
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Grass Worker (草疙瘩), responsible for gathering and bundling grass to fuel the sugar boiling process.
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Leaf Worker (叶子客) and Sugar Wrapper (包包匠), responsible for placing sugarcane leaves in sugar bowls and wrapping the sugar after it has cooled.
Process Overview
The process is divided into day and night shifts. The day shift is responsible for bringing in sugarcane, while the night shift handles the extraction, boiling, and forming of the sugar. The process includes several stages:
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Pressing: The Press Worker and two assistants press the sugarcane three times to extract the juice. The water buffaloes are rotated in shifts.
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Heating, Evaporation, and Clarification: The “Large Firehead” and “Small Firehead” workers monitor the sugar boiling process. They begin heating the sugar water in one of the large pots, and as it thickens, it is transferred into the next pot. Foam is constantly skimmed from the sugar, and the heat is regulated.
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Sugar Making and Wrapping: The Sugar Maker adds lime to the boiling sugar syrup and pours it into the small sugar bowls. The Leaf Worker arranges the leaves in each bowl, and the Sugar Wrapper helps form and package the sugar.
The quality of the sugar depends on a delicate balance of heat, lime, and careful handling throughout the process.
Origin and Characteristics
Qiaojia Small Bowl Brown Sugar is primarily produced in areas like Menggu Town, Jintang Town, Baihetan Town, and other villages near the Jinsha River in Qiaojia County. These regions have the ideal climate and soil for sugarcane cultivation, which contributes to the sugar’s unique quality. The sugar produced here has a golden yellow or reddish-yellow color, is semi-transparent, has a strong fragrance, and has a pure, smooth taste.
To test the authenticity of Qiaojia Small Bowl Brown Sugar, one can dissolve a piece of sugar in water. The syrup will form into a solid mass, and if a straw is inserted, only clear water will remain in the cup, which is a simple and effective method to confirm its authenticity.
The sugar blocks are shaped in an ancient, elegant design. They are semi-spherical, with two concave sides, and are called “petals” (瓣). When two petals are joined together, they form a “golden kumquat” shape and weigh approximately 50 grams. These are wrapped in oak leaves. Ten of these sugar pieces are bundled together using sugarcane leaves to form a “bundle” (把), weighing about 500 grams. This traditional packaging not only protects the sugar from moisture but also makes it easy to use, with a classic, rustic charm.
