What is Puerh Tea?

Pu’er Tea Overview

Definition and Terminology

Pu’er tea (also spelled pu-erh, pu’ erh, or pu’erh) is a type of fermented tea traditionally produced in Yunnan Province, China. The term hēichá (黑茶), meaning “black tea” in Chinese, refers to this tea in the context of traditional Chinese tea production. However, to avoid confusion with the Western concept of black tea (紅茶, hóngchá), which is actually a fully oxidized tea, “dark tea” is often used in English to describe pu’er.

Unlike most teas that are oxidized by enzymes present in the leaves, pu’er tea undergoes microbial fermentation. This process involves molds, bacteria, and yeasts, which contribute to the unique characteristics of the tea.

Production Styles

1. Raw Pu’er (Shēng Chá 生茶):
   • Production Process: Raw pu’er starts with máochá (毛茶, “rough tea”), which is minimally processed. After the initial drying and rolling, the tea can be pressed into cakes or left as loose leaf. It undergoes a natural aging process over time, which gradually develops its flavor and aroma.
   • Aging: Raw pu’er can be aged for several years to decades, with flavors evolving significantly over time. The tea is often stored in non-airtight containers, similar to how wine is aged.
2. Ripe Pu’er (Shóu Chá 熟茶):
   • Production Process: The modern production of ripe pu’er was developed in 1973 by the Kunming Tea Factory and later adopted by the Menghai Tea Factory. This method, known as wòduī (渥堆, “wet piling”), accelerates the fermentation process. The tea leaves are piled, dampened, and turned in a controlled environment to mimic the aging process of raw pu’er.
   • Characteristics: Ripe pu’er is ready for consumption more quickly than raw pu’er. The flavor profile tends to be richer and earthier, with a smoother texture. This tea can also be aged further if desired.

Historical and Traditional Aspects

• Traditional Production: The traditional method of producing raw pu’er involves a lengthy aging process, which can enhance the complexity and depth of flavors. This method is considered more authentic by traditionalists.
• Modern Adaptations: The ripened pu’er process was a significant innovation that allowed for a faster production cycle. Despite its efficiency, some purists debate whether it can match the quality of traditionally aged raw pu’er.

Storage and Aging

• Storage: Pu’er tea is often stored in non-airtight conditions to allow for continued aging. The storage environment can influence the development of flavors and characteristics.
• Labeling: It is common practice to label pu’er tea with the year and region of production, reflecting its aging process and provenance.

The Name of Puerh Tea

The term pu’er (also spelled pu-erh, pu’erh, pu-er, or pu-erh) is derived from the pinyin romanization of the Mandarin pronunciation of Chinese characters 普洱. Here’s a brief overview of its naming and terminology:

Naming and Terminology

• Pu’er: This is the standard pinyin romanization used internationally to refer to this specific type of fermented tea. It reflects the pronunciation in Mandarin Chinese.
• Pu-erh: This variant of the Wade-Giles romanization (p‘u-êrh) is an older system and still used in some contexts, especially in historical texts or by traditionalists.
• Bo-lei: In Hong Kong, the same Chinese characters (普洱) are pronounced as “Bo-lei” in Cantonese, which is an alternative English term used locally.

Historical Context

• Pu’er Town: The tea gets its name from the ancient tea-trading town of Pu’er (普洱), which is today known as Ning’er Town (宁洱镇) in Ning’er County, part of the Pu’er prefecture-level city in Yunnan Province.
• Historical Changes: Pu’er County was renamed Simao in 1950 after the Communist victory and the new county seat of Simao Town. The County of Simao became a prefecture-level city in 2007 and was renamed back to Pu’er. Despite these changes, the tea is still associated with the historical name.

Terminology in Other Languages

• Chinese Terminology: In Chinese, pu’er tea is referred to as hēichá (黑茶), meaning “black tea,” but this should not be confused with the Western concept of black tea, which is actually a fully oxidized tea.
• Spanish Terminology: In Spanish, pu’er tea is known as té rojo (red tea), while what is known as black tea in Western contexts (紅茶, hóngchá) is referred to as té negro (black tea) in Spanish. This reflects the differences in tea classification across cultures.

Summary

Pu’er tea’s name reflects its historical roots in the Yunnan region of China. The terminology varies depending on the romanization system used and the language. Understanding these differences is important for navigating global discussions about this unique tea.

History of Pu’er Tea

Early History and Traditional Production

Pu’er tea has deep roots among the ethnic groups of southwest China. The Bulang and Dai peoples of Yunnan Province have been producing pu’er tea since at least the 10th century. This traditional tea was often grown in the forest understory following the removal of larger trees. The cultivation involved planting tea trees alongside protective partition forests to guard against pests and diseases, with crops and vegetables grown at lower altitudes.

Traditional Practices

The traditional cultivation practices and processing methods for pu’er tea reflect its cultural significance. Historically, these methods did not involve standardized processing techniques for darkening the tea, which was known as hēichá (黑茶, or “black tea” in English). This form of tea remained predominantly consumed by the ethnic groups in southwestern China and was recognized as one of the major tea categories produced by China until the early 1990s.

Modern Developments

Significant changes in pu’er tea production occurred post-World War II:

• 1950s: The surge in demand, particularly in Hong Kong where many mainland refugees had settled, led to new developments in tea processing. This period marked the beginning of more standardized processing for darkening hēichá.
• 1970s: The improved processing techniques, notably the wòduī (渥堆) method, were developed in Yunnan. This process, which involves controlled microbial fermentation to simulate aging, produced tea that could mimic the taste of naturally aged teas within a matter of months. This innovation sparked a boom in the production of hēichá, driven by the demand for rapidly aged tea.

UNESCO Recognition

The cultural and historical significance of pu’er tea and its unique cultivation methods led to its inscription on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2023. This recognition highlights the importance of preserving the traditional practices associated with pu’er tea production and acknowledges the unbroken history of tea cultivation at Jingmai Mountain.

Recent Trends

In recent years, the market has seen a shift back towards raw pu’er tea. Consumers have shown renewed interest in traditional, non-accelerated fermentation methods, which emphasize the tea’s natural aging process and authenticity.

Processing of Pu’er Tea

Pu’er tea, a distinct type of fermented tea from Yunnan Province, China, is processed in two primary categories: raw (shēngchá) and ripe (shóuchá). The processing of pu’er tea involves several steps, and each category undergoes a unique process that influences its flavor, texture, and aging characteristics.

Overview of Processing Steps

1. Maocha Preparation:
   • Maocha (毛茶) refers to the partially processed tea leaves that serve as the base for both raw and ripe pu’er tea. The preparation of maocha involves several steps:
     • Killing Green (杀青, shāqīng): This step involves quickly heating the tea leaves to stop oxidation, preserving the green color and fresh flavor of the leaves.
     • Rolling (揉捻, róuniàn): The leaves are rolled to break up the cell walls, releasing essential oils and enzymes that contribute to the flavor.
     • Sun Drying (晒干, shàigān): The rolled leaves are spread out in the sun to reduce moisture content and further halt oxidation.
2. Processing of Raw Pu’er (Shēngchá):
   • Raw Pu’er (生茶, shēngchá) can be sold directly as maocha or further processed into compressed forms like cakes or bricks. It undergoes a natural aging process, where flavors and aromas develop over several years. The key steps include:
     • Compression: The maocha is compressed into various shapes such as cakes (bing) or bricks.
     • Aging: The tea is stored in a controlled environment where it continues to age and mature, developing complex flavors over time.
3. Processing of Ripe Pu’er (Shóuchá):
   • Ripe Pu’er (熟茶, shúchá) is produced using an accelerated fermentation process known as wòduī (渥堆), which simulates the aging process of raw pu’er. The steps involved are:
     • Piling (渥堆, wòduī): The maocha is piled in a controlled environment, where it is dampened and turned regularly. This process promotes microbial fermentation and oxidation, mimicking the aging process.
     • Drying (干燥, gānzào): After fermentation, the tea is dried to stop the fermentation process and stabilize the flavor. The dried tea is then often compressed into cakes or bricks.

Key Differences Between Raw and Ripe Pu’er

• Raw Pu’er (Shēngchá): This tea is characterized by its natural aging process. Initially, it has a fresh and sometimes astringent flavor that matures into a smooth, rich taste over time. The aging process can take several years, during which the tea develops complexity and depth.
• Ripe Pu’er (Shóuchá): The accelerated fermentation process used to produce ripe pu’er results in a tea with a darker color and a more mellow, earthy flavor. It is designed to approximate the flavors of aged raw pu’er within a shorter time frame.

Classification and Terminology

Pu’er tea is classified as a type of dark tea (hēichá, 黑茶), which is one of the six traditional tea categories in China. Despite the dark color of ripe pu’er and its unique fermentation process, it is distinct from what is known in the West as black tea. Pu’er tea’s classification as dark tea reflects its fermentation and aging processes, which contribute to its distinctive characteristics.

As of 2008, only the large-leaf varietal from Yunnan is officially recognized as pu’er tea, emphasizing the specific geographic and varietal characteristics required for authentic pu’er production.

Maocha (Rough Tea) Processing

Maocha (毛茶), meaning “rough tea” or “light green rough tea,” is the initial stage in the production of pu’er tea. The primary goal of this stage is to preserve the leaves and prevent spoilage while ensuring minimal processing. Maocha is the base material used for making both raw (shēngchá) and ripe (shóuchá) pu’er teas.

Steps in Maocha Processing

1. Plucking and Handling:
   • Picking: Tender leaves are carefully picked to avoid bruising and oxidation. The selection of leaves is crucial for quality.
   • Withering/Wilting: Depending on the processor, the leaves might be withered to remove excess moisture. This is typically done by spreading the leaves in a ventilated space or under the sun. In less favorable weather, a slight heating process may be used. This step helps in reducing water content and preparing the leaves for further processing.
2. Killing the Green (杀青, shā qīng):
   • Pan-Roasting: The leaves are dry-roasted in a large wok. This step halts most enzyme activity, preventing full oxidation and preserving the tea’s green characteristics. The process is critical in shaping the flavor profile of the pu’er tea.
3. Rolling and Shaping:
   • Rolling: After pan-roasting, the leaves are rolled, rubbed, and shaped into strands. This step bruises the leaves lightly and aids in the development of the tea’s flavor. The rolling process is essential in controlling the degree of oxidation that occurs during the drying phase.
4. Sun-Drying:
   • Drying: The rolled leaves are left to dry in the sun. Unlike green tea, which is dried with hot air to stop enzyme activity completely, pu’er leaves retain a small amount of enzymes. This slight oxidation during sun-drying contributes to the unique characteristics of pu’er tea.
5. Further Processing:
   • Direct Sale or Compression: Once dried, maocha can be sold directly as loose-leaf “raw” shēngchá or undergo further processing. Maocha that is sold as loose-leaf can mature naturally in this form, typically over two to three years, before being pressed into cakes or bricks.
   • Fermentation: Maocha can also be processed into ripe pu’er (shóuchá) by undergoing the wòduī (wet piling) fermentation process, or it can be further aged and then pressed into shapes for raw pu’er.

Characteristics of Maocha

• Appearance: Maocha typically exhibits a mix of green and grey tones. Its relatively young raw pu’er often displays a vibrant and varied color profile.
• Flavor Profile: Maocha is closer to green tea in flavor but with slight oxidation that adds complexity. The minimal oxidation and processing result in a unique flavor characteristic that evolves during the maturation process.

Maocha serves as the foundation for pu’er tea, and its careful processing is crucial in determining the final characteristics of the tea, whether it is raw or ripe pu’er.

Pressing of Pu’er Tea

The pressing of pu’er tea is a crucial step in its production, transforming loose maocha into compressed forms like cakes, bricks, and other shapes. This process not only affects the tea’s storage and aging but also influences its flavor and texture. Here’s a detailed look at how pu’er tea is pressed:

Steps in Pressing Pu’er Tea

1. Preparation of Maocha:
   • Weighing: The desired amount of dry maocha is measured out based on the final weight of the compressed tea product.
   • Steaming: The dry tea is lightly steamed in perforated cans to soften the leaves and make them tacky. This helps the leaves to stick together and maintain their shape during compression.
2. Bagging and Shaping:
   • Inserting Tickets and Adornments: A small ticket (nèi fēi, 内飞) or other decorative elements may be placed among the tea leaves.
   • Wrapping: The tea is then wrapped in a cloth bag. The bag is gathered and twisted into a ball shape, which will create the distinctive dimpled indentation on the reverse side of the pressed cake. In some cases, the bag is tied or coiled around itself to form a knot that contributes to the shape of the final product.
   • Shaping: Depending on the intended shape (e.g., cake, brick, or square), the tea may be pressed directly into the desired form or placed in a cotton bag before pressing.
3. Pressing Methods:
   • Hydraulic Press: Modern pu’er production primarily uses hydraulic presses, which are efficient and can handle large quantities of tea. The press forces the tea into a metal mold, which can have decorative motifs in sunken relief. Tightly compressed cakes made with this method are known as tié bǐng (铁饼, “iron cake”) due to their density and hardness.
   • Stone or Hand Pressing: Traditionally, a heavy stone or cylindrical press with a handle was used to weigh down tea in a cloth bag on a wooden board. This method gives the tea a rounded shape with sometimes non-uniform edges. It is still used for artisanal pu’er production and often results in unique, handcrafted shapes.
4. Drying:
   • Air Drying: After pressing, the pu’er cakes are removed from the cloth bags and placed on latticed shelves to air dry. This drying process can take several weeks to months, depending on the moisture content of the pressed tea.
   • Wrapping and Packing: Once fully dried, the pu’er cakes are individually wrapped by hand and packed for distribution.

Fermentation of Pu’er Tea

The fermentation of pu’er tea is a microbial process that significantly impacts its flavor and characteristics. Unlike other teas, pu’er undergoes microbial fermentation, which involves both enzymatic and microbial activities.

1. Solid-State Fermentation:
   • Microbial Activity: Pu’er tea undergoes solid-state fermentation, where water activity is low. This process involves both endo-oxidation (enzymes from the tea leaves) and exo-oxidation (microbial catalysis). The microbes involved metabolize carbohydrates and amino acids in the tea leaves, contributing to the unique flavors of pu’er tea.
   • Key Microbes: Aspergillus niger has been identified as a key organism in pu’er fermentation. However, recent studies have reclassified many East Asian fermentation species to Aspergillus luchuensis, which does not produce harmful ochratoxins, ensuring pu’er tea is safe for consumption.
2. Variability and Safety:
   • Microbial Variability: The specific microbes involved in fermentation can vary by region and factory. This variability can influence the flavor and quality of the tea.
   • Safety: Despite concerns about ochratoxins, recent research indicates that the species involved in pu’er tea fermentation is not harmful and is considered safe for human consumption.

Ripe and Raw Pu’er Tea

Raw Pu’er Tea (Shēng Chá 生茶)

Raw Pu’er tea, known as shēng chá (生茶), is made from unfermented máochá (rough tea). It is essentially a green tea that can be aged naturally over time. The aging process involves both oxidation and microbial activities, which develop the tea’s flavors and characteristics gradually.

• Processing: After the initial drying and rolling of máochá, raw Pu’er tea is typically compressed into various shapes such as cakes or bricks. It is then stored in a controlled environment where it continues to age. The aging process can take several years to decades, during which the tea evolves in flavor and aroma.
• Characteristics: Raw Pu’er tea tends to have a fresh, bright flavor with a strong, sometimes astringent character. Over time, it develops more complex flavors, including earthy and woody notes.

Ripened Pu’er Tea (Shú Chá 熟茶)

Ripened Pu’er tea, also known as shú chá (熟茶) or cooked Pu’er, is designed to mimic the aged characteristics of raw Pu’er tea through a controlled fermentation process. Despite the name “cooked,” no actual cooking is involved; instead, the tea undergoes a rapid fermentation process to accelerate aging.

• Processing: The production of ripened Pu’er involves a technique called wò duī (渥堆), or “wet piling.” This process includes:
  • Piling: The máochá is piled in a controlled environment.
  • Wetting: The tea is dampened to create a humid environment conducive to fermentation.
  • Turning: The piles are regularly turned to ensure even fermentation.

  This technique simulates the aging process by creating conditions that encourage the growth of specific bacteria and fungi, including various strains of Aspergillus spp. and Penicillium spp., which facilitate fermentation.

• Fermentation: The ripening process typically lasts between 45 and 60 days. This period can be adjusted depending on the desired characteristics of the final tea. The control of factors such as humidity and microbial cultures is crucial to achieving a high-quality ripened Pu’er. Poor control can lead to undesirable flavors and aromas.
• Characteristics: Ripened Pu’er tea has a dark, rich flavor with a smooth, earthy, and sometimes musty character. It often has higher caffeine levels and increased gallic acid compared to raw Pu’er. Additionally, ripened Pu’er generally has lower levels of catechins and other antioxidants compared to traditionally aged raw Pu’er.
• History: The Wò Duī method was developed in 1973 by Menghai Tea Factory and Kunming Tea Factory to produce Pu’er tea with flavors and colors similar to aged raw Pu’er. Mass production began in 1975. Ripened Pu’er can be consumed immediately or aged further to mellow out some of the more intense flavors acquired during the fermentation process.

Chemical Differences

• Ripened Pu’er:
  • Higher caffeine levels
  • Higher gallic acid levels
  • Lower catechin levels (including epigallocatechin gallate, (+)-catechin, (–)-epicatechin, and others) compared to raw Pu’er and other types of tea
• Raw Pu’er:
  • Higher levels of antioxidants such as epigallocatechin gallate and catechins
  • Tends to have a more varied flavor profile that develops with aging

Aside from vintage year, pu’er tea can be classified in a variety of ways: by shape, processing method, region, cultivation, grade, and season.

Pu’er is compressed into a variety of shapes. Other lesser seen forms include: stacked “melon pagodas”, pillars, calabashes, yuanbao, and small tea bricks (2–5 cm in width). Pu’er is also compressed into the hollow centers of bamboo stems or packed and bound into a ball inside the peel of various citrus fruits (Xiaoqinggan) or sold as nuggets (Suiyinzi 碎银子 or fossilized tea 茶化石) or bundles made from tea at the center of wet piles (Laotoucha 老头茶).

Common Name	Chinese Characters	Pinyin	Description
Cake or Disc	饼茶 / 餅茶	Bǐngchá	A round, flat disc or puck-shaped tea. Sizes range from 100 g to over 5 kg, with 357 g, 400 g, and 500 g being common. Edges can be rounded or perpendicular. Known as Qīzi Bǐngchá (七子餅茶) when packaged in sets of seven.
Bowl or Nest	沱茶 / 沱茶	Tuóchá	A convex knob-shaped tea, ranging from 3 g to over 3 kg, with common sizes of 100 g, 250 g, and 500 g. The name comes from its shape or the Tuo River tea trade route. Often had holes for transport.
Brick	砖茶 / 磚茶	Zhuānchá	A thick rectangular block of tea, typically in 100 g, 250 g, 500 g, and 1000 g sizes. Traditionally used for ease of transport along ancient tea routes.
Square	方茶 / 方茶	Fāngchá	A flat square of tea, usually 100 g or 200 g. Often stamped with characters or designs.
Mushroom	紧茶 / 緊茶	Jǐnchá	Shaped like a 250 g to 300 g Tuocha but with a stem rather than a convex hollow, resembling a mushroom. Commonly produced for Tibetan consumption.
Dragon Pearl	龙珠 / 龍珠	Lóngzhū	Small ball-shaped or rolled tea, usually 5 to 10 grams per ball. Convenient for single servings and also used in Yunnan black tea and scented green teas.
Gold Melon	金瓜 / 金瓜	Jīnguā	Larger, pumpkin-like shape with ribbed decoration. Originally made for Qing dynasty emperors from Yiwu Mountain. Sometimes called “human-head tea” due to its size and historical presentation.

Other Lesser-Seen Forms

• Melon Pagodas, Pillars, and Calabashes: Decorative or ceremonial shapes.
• Yuanbao (元宝): Shaped like traditional Chinese ingots.
• Xiaoqinggan (小青柑): Tea packed into citrus peels.
• Suiyinzi (碎银子) and Fossilized Tea (茶化石): Nuggets or pieces for unique aging processes or presentations.
• Laotoucha (老头茶): Bundles from tea at the center of wet piles.

Process and Oxidation of Pu’er Tea

Pu’er tea is distinct in the tea world due to its unique fermentation and oxidation processes. Understanding these processes is essential to appreciate its diverse flavors and characteristics. Here’s an in-depth look at the process and oxidation of pu’er tea:

Oxidation and Fermentation

1. Oxidation vs. Fermentation:
   • Oxidation: In tea production, oxidation refers to the exposure of tea leaves to air, which causes chemical changes leading to darker colors and more complex flavors. Black tea is fully oxidized, while oolong tea is partially oxidized.
   • Fermentation: For pu’er tea, fermentation involves microbial activity, not just oxidation. This process occurs in a low-oxygen environment and involves molds, bacteria, and yeasts that contribute to the tea’s unique characteristics.
2. Oxidation in Pu’er Tea:
   • Sun Drying: During the initial processing of pu’er tea, oxidation occurs as the leaves are sun-dried. This is a natural process where the tea leaves undergo slight oxidation.
3. Fermentation in Pu’er Tea:
   • Shu (Ripened) Pu’er: This type undergoes a controlled fermentation process called wòduī (渥堆) or pile fermentation. This phase lasts about 45 to 60 days and involves stacking the tea leaves in large piles, covering them, and keeping them moist. The microbial activity in this anaerobic environment accelerates the fermentation, producing flavors and aromas similar to those found in aged pu’er.
   • Sheng (Raw) Pu’er: This type experiences a more gradual fermentation. Sheng pu’er undergoes natural aging and oxidation over time. The degree of fermentation and oxidation depends on storage conditions, including humidity and temperature.

Types of Pu’er Tea

1. Maocha:
   • Definition: Loose, unpressed raw tea leaves that serve as the base material for making pressed pu’er tea.
   • Quality: The quality of maocha is crucial; poorly processed maocha can result in inferior pu’er tea.
2. Green/Raw Pu’er:
   • Definition: Pressed maocha that has not undergone additional fermentation. This tea is appreciated for its potential to develop complex flavors with age.
   • Collectibility: High-quality green pu’er is sought after by collectors and tea enthusiasts.
3. Ripened/Cooked Pu’er:
   • Definition: Maocha that has undergone accelerated fermentation, giving it a darker color and more mellow flavor compared to raw pu’er.
   • Quality Issues: Poorly fermented pu’er may have undesirable flavors, such as fishy or sour notes.
4. Aged Raw Pu’er:
   • Definition: Pressed raw pu’er that has aged over time, allowing for natural fermentation and oxidation to develop complex flavors.
   • Value: Typically highly regarded for its refined taste, especially when aged for several decades.

Flavors of Pu’er Tea

1. Ripe Pu’er Flavors:
   • Duiwei (堆味): Fermented flavor resulting from the wòduī process.
   • Cangwei (仓味): Storage flavor, which can vary based on storage conditions.
   • Xingwei (腥味): Fishy flavor, often an indication of poorly stored or processed tea.
   • Meiwei (霉味): Moldy flavor, typically associated with improper storage.

   Other Aroma Notes:

   • Camphora (樟香): A medicinal, woody aroma.
   • Ginseng (参香): A root-like, herbal aroma.
   • Jujube (枣香): A sweet, fruit-like aroma.
   • Costus (木香): A woody, slightly sweet aroma.
   • Minty (荷香): A fresh, minty aroma.
   • Very Aged (陈香): Deep, rich aroma from extended aging.
2. Raw Pu’er Flavors:
   • Floral (花香): A delicate, flowery aroma.
   • Grassy (草香): A fresh, green aroma reminiscent of cut grass.
   • Fresh (清香): A bright, clean aroma.
   • Herbal (药香): A medicinal, herbaceous aroma.
   • Fruity (水果): Sweet, fruity notes.
   • Honey (蜜香): Sweet, honey-like aroma.

Infused Pu’er Variants

1. Sticky Rice Pu’er (Nuomixiang, 糯米香):
   • Flavor: Infused with Strobilanthes tonkinensis leaves, giving a young rice flavor.
2. Bamboo-Roasted Pu’er:
   • Flavor: Encased in bamboo tubes and smoked, imparting a smoky flavor.
3. Tangerine Pu’er (Xiaoqinggan, 小青柑):
   • Flavor: Made with small green tangerines stuffed with tea, adding citrus notes.
4. Flower-Infused Pu’er:
   • Form: Produced as tea balls or cakes with added floral flavors.

Understanding the processes of pressing, fermentation, and oxidation helps appreciate the complexity and variety of pu’er tea. Each stage contributes to the unique flavors and characteristics of this traditional Chinese tea.

Regions of Pu’er Tea

Pu’er tea is predominantly produced in Yunnan Province, China, but it is also found in neighboring regions. Here’s a detailed look at the key regions where Pu’er tea is grown:

1. Yunnan Province

Pu’er City:

• Significance: Often considered the heart of Pu’er tea production, Pu’er City is a central hub for both growing and processing Pu’er tea. It is named after the tea and is often associated with the most authentic and traditional Pu’er tea.

Six Great Tea Mountains:

• Gedeng (革登山): Known for its unique flavor profile, Gedeng is one of the most renowned tea-growing regions.
• Yiwu (易武山): Famous for its rich history and distinct taste, Yiwu Pu’er is highly valued by collectors.
• Mangzhi (莽枝山): Noted for its complex flavors and historical significance.
• Manzhuan (蠻砖山): Known for producing tea with a robust flavor profile.
• Yibang (倚邦山): Produces tea with a unique character and is known for its high quality.
• Youle (攸乐山): Renowned for its fragrant and flavorful teas.

Nine Lesser-Known Tea Mountains (Southwest of the River):

• Mengsong (勐宋): Known for its delicate and aromatic teas.
• Pasha (帕沙): Produces tea with a strong, distinctive flavor.
• Jingmai (景迈): Famous for its rich and mellow taste.
• Nánnuò (南糯): Notable for the purple-hued tea varietal zĭjuān (紫娟).
• Bada (巴达): Produces powerful and robust teas.
• Hekai (贺开): Known for its rich and full-bodied tea.
• Bulangshan (布朗山): Produces tea with a complex and bold flavor.
• Mannuo (曼糯): Noted for its smooth and rich taste.
• Xiao Mengsong (小勐宋): A smaller version of Mengsong, known for its nuanced flavors.

Other Notable Regions in Yunnan:

• Lincang: Known for producing both raw and ripe Pu’er tea with unique regional characteristics.
• Dehong: Produces teas with distinctive flavors influenced by the local climate.
• Simao: Recognized for its rich and diverse Pu’er tea varieties.
• Wenshan: Noted for its fine Pu’er teas with unique flavor profiles.
• Baoshan: Known for its high-quality tea and traditional processing methods.
• Jinggu: Produces teas with a robust and rich flavor.
• Ailuo: Recognized for its unique taste and quality.

2. Other Provinces in China

Guangdong:

• Production: Although Yunnan is the primary producer of Pu’er tea, Guangdong has historically produced Pu’er tea and continues to do so. The Guangyun Gong cake, for instance, includes a blend of Yunnan and Guangdong tea leaves.

Hunan:

• Production: Some Pu’er-style teas are produced in Hunan, though less commonly and usually labeled as dark tea rather than Pu’er.

Regulations and Standards:

• In 2008, the Chinese government approved a standard that restricted the use of the name “Pu’er” to tea produced within specific regions of Yunnan. This regulation aims to protect the authenticity of Pu’er tea and has led to other regions producing similar teas being branded differently, such as “dark tea.”

3. Neighboring Countries

Vietnam:

• Production: Border regions in Vietnam, particularly those near Yunnan, also produce Pu’er-style tea. However, these teas are less common in international markets.

Laos:

• Production: Laos, especially in regions bordering Yunnan, produces tea with similarities to Pu’er. This tea is often less well-known but can be of high quality.

Burma (Myanmar):

• Production: Some regions in Burma, particularly near the Yunnan border, produce Pu’er-style tea, although it is relatively rare and not widely available.

Cultivation of Pu’er Tea

The cultivation methods for Pu’er tea play a significant role in the flavor and quality of the final product. Here’s a detailed look at the different methods of cultivation:

1. Plantation Bushes (guànmù 灌木; taídì 台地)

• Characteristics: These are tea bushes cultivated from seeds or cuttings of wild tea trees. They are planted in lower altitudes and flatter terrain, often in controlled environments.
• Cultivation Practices: Plantation bushes typically involve the use of pesticides and chemical fertilizers. These methods can lead to a less complex flavor profile and may introduce bitterness or astringency.
• Tea Quality: Tea produced from these bushes is generally considered inferior compared to other types. The lack of depth in flavor and the presence of bitterness are common criticisms.

2. “Wild Arbor” Trees (yěfàng 野放)

• Characteristics: These are tea trees from older plantations that have become feral due to a lack of care. They are often mistaken for wild trees, but they are cultivated trees that have reverted to a more natural state.
• Cultivation Practices: These trees are usually cared for using organic practices, including scheduled pruning similar to pollarding. The lack of human intervention in recent years allows these trees to produce teas with higher levels of secondary metabolites.
• Tea Quality: The tea from wild arbor trees is typically of better quality than that from plantation bushes. It often has a more nuanced flavor profile due to the organic cultivation practices. However, it is not as highly prized as tea from truly wild trees.

3. Wild Trees (gŭshù 古树; literally “old tree”)

• Characteristics: Wild trees are old, naturally occurring tea trees that grow without human intervention. These trees are often found in the wild tea forests of Yunnan.
• Cultivation Practices: Since these trees grow in their natural environment without cultivation, they are considered to be the highest quality. They often coexist with camphor trees, which can influence the flavor of the tea.
• Tea Quality: Teas from wild trees are highly valued for their deep and complex flavors. They often have distinctive camphor or mint notes, and young raw Pu’er teas from these trees tend to be less astringent and bitter. Tea made from the closely related Camellia taliensis can command even higher prices.

Identifying Tea Types

Challenges: Differentiating between wild tea, wild arbor tea, and plantation tea can be challenging due to inconsistent labeling and terminology. Terms such as yěshēng (野生; “wild” or “uncultivated”), qiáomù (乔木; “tall tree”), and gǔshù (古树; “old tree”) are often used, but they can be misleading.

Labeling Issues: Labels may not always provide accurate information about the tea’s source, leading to confusion among buyers. Many Pu’er aficionados rely on trusted vendors, tea journals, and annual guides like The Profound World of Chi Tse, Pu-erh Yearbook, and Pu-erh Teapot Magazine for reliable information.

Physical Indicators: Some tea drinkers look for physical characteristics of the leaves to identify wild tea. For instance:

• Camphor Effect: A menthol-like effect in the tea, attributed to camphor laurel trees growing near wild tea trees.
• Leaf Characteristics: Thick veins and sawtooth edges on the leaves, along with camphor flavor elements, are sometimes seen as indicators of wild tea.

Grading of Pu’er Tea

Pu’er tea can be sorted into a variety of grades, which are generally determined by the size and quality of the leaves used. The grading system is not universally standardized, so the same grade might vary between different factories. Here’s a detailed overview:

Grading Criteria

1. Leaf Size and Quality
   • Higher Numbered Grades: Typically, these include older, larger, broken, or less tender leaves. Such leaves may be used in blends to balance flavor and strength.
   • Lower Numbered Grades: These usually consist of more tender, smaller, and higher-quality leaves.
2. Consistency
   • Grading is rarely consistent between different factories. A “first grade” tea leaf from one factory might not be equivalent in quality or flavor to a “first grade” leaf from another.
3. Blending
   • Many Pu’er cakes blend several grades to achieve a balanced flavor profile. This blending helps to smooth out inconsistencies and create a more harmonious tea.

Season of Harvest of Puerh Tea

The season during which Pu’er tea is harvested plays a crucial role in its flavor profile. Here’s how different harvest seasons affect the tea:

1. Spring Tea
   • Most Valued: Spring tea is highly prized due to its freshness and the ideal growing conditions during this time. The leaves tend to have more complex flavors and aromas.
2. Fall Tea
   • Second Best: Fall tea is also valued but is generally considered to be slightly less desirable than spring tea. It can still offer good quality and flavor.
3. Summer Tea
   • Least Preferred: Summer tea is often less favored due to the harsher growing conditions, which can affect the flavor and quality of the leaves.
4. Winter Tea
   • Rare: Winter tea is less common and is sometimes referred to as “early spring” tea, depending on the weather patterns and harvesting schedules.

Puerh Tea Factories

Tea factories play a significant role in the production of Pu’er tea. Here’s an overview of the factory landscape:

Historical Factories

1. Menghai Tea Factory
   • Founded in the 1940s, it is one of the most renowned producers of Pu’er tea. Known for its high-quality products and consistency.
2. Xiaguan Tea Factory
   • Also established in the 1940s, this factory is well-regarded for its Pu’er teas and has a solid reputation in the market.
3. Kunming Tea Factory
   • A significant player in the production of Pu’er tea, known for its historical importance and contribution to the industry.
4. Pu’er Tea Factory
   • Another historical factory with a long-standing reputation for producing quality Pu’er tea.

Modern Factories

1. Haiwan Tea Factory
   • Founded in 1999 by Zhou Bing Liang, a former Menghai Factory owner. It has gained a reputation for producing high-quality Pu’er teas.
2. Changtai Tea Group
   • Established in the 1990s, it is known for its quality Pu’er teas and has a growing presence in the market.
3. Mengku Tea Company
   • Also founded in the 1990s, this factory is recognized for producing notable Pu’er teas.

Production Variability

• Inconsistencies: Variations in production techniques and quality can occur. The reputation of a tea factory may vary from year to year, depending on the specific cakes produced and their quality.
• Factory and Year: When referencing a Pu’er cake, the factory and year of production are often the primary identifiers. This helps in assessing the quality and value of the tea.

Pu’er Tea Recipes and Production Codes

Pu’er tea recipes are identified by a combination of numbers that provide information about the tea’s origin, grade, and production year. Here’s a breakdown of how these codes work:

Recipe Numbering System

1. Four-Digit Recipe Number
   • First Two Digits: Represent the year the recipe was first developed.
   • Third Digit: Indicates the grade of tea leaves used in the recipe.
   • Fourth Digit: Represents the factory that produced the tea.

   For example, the recipe number 7542 would mean:

   • 75: The recipe was first produced in 1975.
   • 4: The tea used is of the fourth grade.
   • 2: Produced by Menghai Tea Factory (Dayi).
2. Factory Codes
   • 1: Kunming Tea Factory
   • 2: Menghai Tea Factory (Dayi)
   • 3: Xiaguan Tea Factory
   • 4: Lan Cang Tea Factory or Feng Qing Tea Factory
   • 5: Pu-erh Tea Factory (now Pu-erh Tea Group Co. Ltd)
   • 6: Six Famous Tea Mountain Factory
   • 7: Unknown / Not Specified
   • 8: Haiwan Tea Factory and Long Sheng Tea Factory

Additional Production Codes

• Three-Digit Code (if present): This code is sometimes attached to the recipe number with a hyphen. It provides further details about the production.
  • First Digit: Represents the year of production.
  • Next Two Digits: Indicate the production number within that year.

  For instance, 8653-602 breaks down as:

  • 8: Indicates the year 2008 (since the recipe number is from 1986).
  • 53: The specific recipe number.
  • 602: The second production batch of this recipe in 2006.

Understanding Recipe Consistency

• Consistency: While recipe numbers provide a standard way to identify teas, the quality and contents of tea cakes can vary year to year. Factors such as the quality of raw materials, changes in production methods, and seasonal variations can affect the final product.
• Production Timing: The additional three-digit code can help tea enthusiasts determine if a cake was produced earlier or later in a season or year. This information can be valuable as early or late batches might have different flavor profiles or qualities.

Usage of Recipe Numbers

• Identification: Recipe numbers are used to identify specific blends and their origin. They help in understanding the characteristics of the tea and in comparing different batches.
• Value and Rarity: Certain recipe numbers and production years can be more valued, especially if they correspond to historically significant or highly prized teas.

Pu’er Tea Packaging and Storage Overview

Pu’er Tea Packaging

Pu’er tea is intricately packaged to ensure quality and authenticity, and different types of packaging serve various purposes:

Individual Cakes

1. Wrapper (包纸):
   • Material: Typically thin cotton cloth or paper.
   • Content: Includes information about the tea company or factory, year of production, region/mountain of harvest, plant type, and recipe number. May also feature decals, logos, and artwork. Multiple layers of wrapping might be used.
2. Nèi Fēi (内飞):
   • Description: A small ticket originally affixed to the tea cake but now often embedded during pressing. It serves as proof of authenticity and indicates the factory and brand. Some high-end cakes have multiple nèi fēi.
3. Nèi Piào (内票):
   • Description: A larger flyer or description ticket packaged loose under the wrapper. Provides factory and brand information, a summary of the factory’s history, and claims about the tea’s quality and benefits.
4. Bǐng (饼):
   • Description: The tea cake itself. Can consist of different grades of tea leaves, with higher-grade leaves on the outside and lower grades in the center.

Wholesale Packaging

1. Tǒng (筒):
   • Description: When bought in bulk, pu’er tea is sold in stacks or tǒng, which are wrapped in bamboo husks, bamboo stems, or coarse paper. A tǒng may contain:
     • Seven 357–500 g bǐngchá.
     • Five 250 g mini bǐngchá.
     • Ten 100 g mini bǐngchá.
   • Jiàn (件): A unit of 12 tǒng, often bound together with a large batch ticket (dàpiào) indicating batch numbers, production quantities, tea type, and factory.

Aging and Storage

The aging process and storage conditions are crucial for pu’er tea, affecting its flavor, quality, and value.

Factors Influencing Aging

1. Leaf Quality:
   • Properly processed maocha will age better. The grade and cultivation of the leaf impact its aging potential.
2. Compression:
   • Tighter compression slows aging. Looser teas age faster.
3. Shape and Size:
   • Larger cakes age slower than smaller ones. Tea shapes with more surface area age quicker.

Environmental Factors

1. Air Flow:
   • Regulates oxygen and removes odors. Stagnant air can make tea stale.
2. Odors:
   • Tea absorbs strong odors. Proper airing can reduce but not completely eliminate them.
3. Humidity:
   • Higher humidity accelerates aging but can cause mold. 60–85% humidity is ideal.
4. Sunlight:
   • Direct sunlight can dry out and make tea bitter.
5. Temperature:
   • High temperatures can develop undesirable flavors, while low temperatures slow aging.

Storage Methods

1. Dry Storage (Gāncāng 干仓):
   • Maintains comfortable temperature and humidity for slow aging, often resulting in more complex flavors.
2. Wet Storage (Shīcāng 湿仓):
   • Involves storing in humid environments, which accelerates aging but may lead to musty flavors.
3. Pen Shui (喷水):
   • Spraying tea with water in a humid environment to accelerate oxidation. Can mimic dry storage but may result in mold or undesirable flavors.

Raw vs. Ripe Pu’er

1. Raw Pu’er:
   • Ages to develop earthy, smooth flavors. Aging can be long, and optimal aging varies by tea.
2. Ripe Pu’er:
   • Intended to imitate aged raw pu’er. Aging ripe pu’er can help reduce musty flavors, but further aging beyond 10-15 years may not significantly improve quality.

Vintaging

• Value and Aging:
  • Not all pu’er teas improve with age. Only well-made and properly stored teas will enhance in quality and value over time.
• Market Trends:
  • Prices for Pu’er tea fluctuated significantly post-2008, with investment-grade teas retaining more value compared to common varieties.

Understanding these aspects of Pu’er tea packaging and storage helps in ensuring the authenticity and quality of the tea while also guiding proper aging practices for maximizing its flavor and value.

Preparation of Pu’er Tea

Separating Tea for Brewing:

1. Flaking or Steaming: To prepare pu’er tea, start by separating a portion of the compressed tea. This can be done by:
   • Flaking Off Pieces: Use a pu’erh knife, similar to an oyster knife or a rigid letter opener, to pry large flakes of tea from the cake. This helps minimize leaf breakage.
   • Steaming: Steam the entire cake to soften it, making it easier to rub apart. This method is often used for smaller cakes like tuocha or mushroom pu’erh.
2. Vertical Sampling: When separating the tea, aim to get a sample from both the surface and the center of the cake. The quality of tea leaves often varies between these areas.

Brewing Methods:

1. Gongfu Style: Pu’erh is traditionally brewed using the Gongfu style with Yixing teapots or a gaiwan (a bowl with a lid and saucer). This method involves multiple short infusions.
   • Water Temperature: Use water temperatures between 85-99°C (185-210°F), depending on the tea’s quality and processing.
   • Rinsing: Perform one or more rinses of the tea leaves before the first infusion. This step helps to saturate the leaves, decompress them, and remove small leaf particles.
2. Infusion Times:
   • First Infusion: Steep for 12 to 30 seconds.
   • Subsequent Infusions: Increase the steeping time by 2–10 seconds with each infusion. Avoid over-steeping, which can result in bitter flavors.

Quality Indicators:

1. Dried Tea Leaves:
   • Appearance: Should be free from twigs, extraneous matter, and mold. Leaves should be whole, not muddy or powdery, and have a fragrant aroma.
   • Surface: Quality pressed pu’er cakes often have a matte sheen.
2. Tea Liquor:
   • Clarity: The liquor should be clear, not cloudy or muddy. Well-aged pu’erh may have a dark reddish color.
   • Flavor: Should have a persistent flavor through infusions, without sudden disappearance or added flavorants.
3. Young Raw Pu’erh:
   • Aroma: Should have distinct herbal, floral, and dried fruit notes. May be bitter and astringent but should have a pleasant mouthfeel and sweet aftertaste (gān and húigān).
4. Aged Raw Pu’erh:
   • Smell: Should not be moldy or musty. It may have an aged but not stuffy odor.
   • Taste: Smooth, with slight bitterness and no off-sour flavors. Should have a rich texture with distinct gān and húigān.
5. Spent Tea Leaves:
   • Appearance: Leaves should be whole and easily identifiable. They should not crumble or resemble compost.

Practices:

1. Pairing: Pu’er tea is often consumed during dim sum meals and may be paired with dried osmanthus flowers, pomelo rinds, or chrysanthemum flowers for added fragrance. The combination of pu’er tea with chrysanthemum is particularly popular and is referred to as “guk pou” in Cantonese.
2. Additional Ingredients: Sometimes, wolfberries are added to the tea, plumping during brewing.

Health Effects of Pu’erh Tea

Pu’erh tea is often consumed for its potential health benefits. However, it’s important to note that while some of these benefits are widely discussed, scientific evidence may vary. Here are some commonly claimed health effects and relevant information:

1. Digestive Health:
   • Aid in Digestion: Pu’erh tea is traditionally believed to aid digestion, especially when consumed with meals like dim sum. This is thought to be due to its ability to help break down fats and improve overall digestion.
2. Weight Management:
   • Fat Reduction: Some studies suggest that pu’erh tea may help with weight management by potentially reducing body fat and cholesterol levels. However, evidence supporting these claims is mixed. A 2019 study found no clear evidence that pu’erh tea promotes weight loss in humans.
3. Cholesterol Levels:
   • Lipid Profile: Some research indicates that pu’erh tea might help lower LDL cholesterol levels and improve the lipid profile. The effects are generally attributed to compounds in the tea that might influence fat metabolism.
4. Antioxidant Properties:
   • Free Radical Scavenging: Pu’erh tea contains antioxidants that may help combat oxidative stress and protect cells from damage caused by free radicals. This could potentially contribute to overall health and longevity.
5. Blood Sugar Control:
   • Glycemic Control: Preliminary research suggests that pu’erh tea might have a beneficial effect on blood sugar levels, which could be useful for individuals with diabetes or insulin resistance. However, more research is needed to confirm these effects.
6. Mental Alertness:
   • Caffeine Content: Pu’erh tea contains caffeine, which can enhance mental alertness and improve cognitive function. However, excessive consumption of caffeinated tea should be moderated to avoid negative effects such as insomnia or jitteriness.
7. Gut Health:
   • Probiotic Effects: Some pu’erh teas, particularly those that are aged, may contain beneficial bacteria that act as probiotics. These probiotics can support gut health and improve digestion.
8. Anti-inflammatory Effects:
   • Inflammation Reduction: Certain compounds in pu’erh tea may have anti-inflammatory properties, potentially reducing inflammation in the body and benefiting conditions related to chronic inflammation.

Considerations and Warnings:

• Quality and Preparation: The health benefits of pu’erh tea can vary depending on the quality of the tea and how it is prepared. Poor-quality tea or improper preparation may not provide the same benefits.
• Moderation: As with any caffeinated beverage, moderation is key. Excessive consumption of pu’erh tea can lead to adverse effects such as digestive issues or caffeine-related problems.
• Scientific Evidence: While many health benefits are attributed to pu’erh tea, scientific evidence is still evolving. It’s important to consider these potential benefits in the context of a balanced diet and healthy lifestyle.

Always consult with a healthcare professional before making significant changes to your diet or using tea for health purposes.