Tortoise Mountain in Nanjian County, Dali
Overview
Turtle Mountain (乌龟山) is located at the banks of the Bian River, 53 kilometers from Nanjian County (南涧县) at the foot of the Ailao Mountains (哀牢山). This small hill resembles a turtle crawling and carries a poignant historical narrative within Chinese history.
Historical Significance
In 1856, influenced by the Taiping Rebellion (太平天国革命运动), Li Wenxue (李文学), a Yi ethnic leader, rallied over 5,000 impoverished farmers from various ethnic groups to gather at Tiansheng Camp (天生营) on the back mountains of Walou (瓦卢). They swore to revolt, declaring their revolutionary program: “Eliminate the corrupt Qing officials, eradicate the Han landlords, support the Heavenly Kingdom, and expel the Qing bandits.”
Li Wenxue was elected as the “Supreme Commander of the Yi Army” by the uprising forces. The rebels established their base in the Ailao Mountains and formed a revolutionary government—known as the Commandery (帅府)—in Midi (密滴), which is now part of Midu County (弥渡县). They set up the Left and Right Supervisory Offices (左、右、南督府) surrounding the commandery, controlling the western regions of Mengle Mountain (蒙乐山) and the middle and lower reaches of Lishe River (礼社江).
Under the leadership of Li Wenxue, the peasant revolutionary government fiercely opposed the reactionary rule of the Qing Dynasty (清王朝) and the feudal system, implementing policies like “military farming” on the lands of nearby landlords and “exemptions from rent and light taxes.” Consequently, a government emerged in the Ailao Mountain area characterized by “wealth for the people and substantial governance.”
After ten years of struggle, the base expanded to cover most of the areas in more than ten counties, including Nanjian, Midu, Nanhua, Chuxiong, Shuangbai, Jingdong, Zhenyuan, Xinping, Yuanjiang, and Mojiang. The number of supervisory offices increased from three to eight. Within the established base, various ethnic groups such as Yi (彝), Han (汉), Hui (回), Bai (白), Miao (苗), Dai (傣), Blang (布朗), Hani (哈尼), and Lisu (傈僳) coexisted, with a total population exceeding 500,000 across an area of over 30,000 square kilometers.
By the 13th year of the Tongzhi era (同治十三年, 1874), following the uprising’s failure, Li Wenxue was betrayed and brutally executed at Turtle Mountain. This struggle lasted for 18 years and has had a profound influence on Chinese history.
Memorialization
In honor of Li Wenxue’s indelible achievements and heroism, the local Yi people built a small temple at Turtle Mountain to express their sorrow. Even today, on the 25th day of the third lunar month, people from various ethnic groups in the Ailao Mountain region gather here to hold solemn commemorative activities.
How to Get There
By Bus
- From Dali City (大理市): Take a bus to Nanjian County. The journey typically takes around 2 hours.
- From Nanjian County: Hire a local taxi or use a motorcycle taxi to reach Turtle Mountain.
By Car
If you prefer to drive, rent a car in Dali. The distance from Dali City to Turtle Mountain is about 53 kilometers, taking approximately 1 hour. Follow the route towards Nanjian County, then look for signs directing you to Turtle Mountain.
Travel Tips
- Best Time to Visit: Spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November) offer the best weather for exploring.
- Local Attractions: Explore nearby historical sites and natural landscapes while visiting Turtle Mountain.
- Cultural Etiquette: Be respectful of local customs, especially during memorial activities.
- Safety Precautions: Wear comfortable shoes and be cautious of uneven terrain while hiking around the mountain.
- Photography: Capture the beautiful scenery and historical monuments, especially during sunrise or sunset for stunning lighting.
