5 Days Puzhehei and Bamei Travel Experience

Day 1, took the morning flight departed from Beijing at am7.55 and arrived at Changshui (长水)airport, Kunming(昆明) at am 11.35 punctually. Then I was taking the airport line No. 4 (空港四号线) (ticket: 25RMB/person) bus which of the destination is Southern Bus Terminal (南部客运站) to change to the high speed rail station by subway.

The driver told me it would take 1 hour to get to the station conservatively but I got there only for 40 minutes because of no traffic jam. At 13:00, I left bus and walked forwardly 10 meters to get to the subway station. There are 6 stations and took 20 min. i.e. 13:25 on the subway train and 13:35 arrived at high speed rail station. One hour advanced than my expectation. Unlike Beijing South station, There was nothing to wander about with only 3 or 4 restaurants.

Warm tip 1: Referring to the travel tips on the internet, it was told to take the 919K on the B1 floor to get to the high-speed rail station by 1.5 hours. Actually, I did not look for the 919K strictly, however, I asked the airport staff which bus to take after arrival on the 1st floor following the airport bus guidance. The successful experience tested by numerous times is opening your mouth and ask whenever you are on any trip outside. To study the travel tips is for making sure but you could not follow the tips inflexible。 The world is changing so quickly!

We booked high -speed rail tickets on the Internet (sometimes the tickets are in shortage, only 6 tickets remained when I was booking) schedule time:14:49 -16.30. There are many soliciting drivers to Bamei(坝美) outside the station. We chartered a car with 4 large and 1 small /7 seats in 100RMB.

16:40 seated in the car, the driver conservatively estimated it took 1 hour to arrive because there was a section road in repair (50 minutes will be ok after the road’s repair). But on the end we arrived at the so-called ticket hall by 17:30, in fact, it’s just a very small and shabby house like a retail department. You may find pictures on the net.

When I was on the bus, I bought the tickets on Taobao(淘宝) mostly cost 85RMB and seldom 75 RMB and I naturally bought the cheap type. When received the verification code in 2 seconds, I went to the entry to change tickets.

Warm tip 2:  Most travel tips on the net told that the transportation from Kunming(昆明) to Guangnan(广南) is by bus. But in fact, the high speed rail has been put in use at the end of Dec. 2016. Therefore, it’s necessary to notice the release date of the tips and of course, the tips with the latest date would be much more referential. The price for car charter could be bargained. Less people could be less charged, for example, there were 2 people besides us took a car with 5 seats and it cost like 80/90 RMB. No recommendation to take the bus only for saving money and it would still take 1.5 hours by bus.

5 Days Puzhehei and Bamei Travel Experience

Warm Tip 3: About the ticket for Bamei(坝美) The prices on the net are all 100 RMB. But the standard price is adjusted to 85RMB showed on the tickets sales office. I assume that the tickets sold on Taobao are not cheaper than expected.    The net information says 100 RMB tickets include 2 carriages and 3 ferry tickets, and 85 RMB include only 1 carriage. I’m not sure if my understanding is correct about this point. Because there are 4 coupons on the ticket and each one will be torn after use. Later, our tickets coupons are mixed to use, anyway, all coupons when are tore up we buy new ones and it’s also very cheap-6RMB/person.

Sitting in the carriage, wandered for a few minutes and we saw the legendary mouth of the cave. We went into the cave by taking small boat. It’s kind of unique feeling in the cave where there is no light and very dark inside. The swallows are quite a lot there. All the way leisurely, a few minutes later we saw a light suddenly on 18:00 and we left the boat to go ashore.

5 Days Puzhehei and Bamei Travel Experience

友情提示4:到坝美时17.30了,之前很担心太晚没有马车船进去,因为我们订了村里面的客栈,但实际到六七点还可以进去的。我们从携程上提前订了客栈,得到老板电话,也正是想确认此事。当然17.30时摆摊的已经开始收摊了。

5 Days Puzhehei and Bamei Travel Experience

我们住的客栈是88农家乐,周围都是客栈,可以说家家都是客栈吧。

5 Tips: this time not many visitors, or is a popular choice for dam this is not a place of mass tourism, so fewer people, not online booking in advance. I have a family travel booking is reassuring, two is informed in advance the boss call to confirm something. Inn the bathrooms are squatting, I saw under the big banyan tree is a hotel with nice decoration, but the toilet, your point is only 150.

5 Days Puzhehei and Bamei Travel Experience

5 Days Puzhehei and Bamei Travel Experience

拉着行李箱一路去找客栈倒是很容易找到,但这路啊真是费轱辘。

5 Days Puzhehei and Bamei Travel Experience

坝美村的统一定价,每家都有这个大同小异的菜谱,拼的是各家老板的炒菜手艺了。不过我对村里的饭菜实在不敢恭维,吃不惯吧。但有人觉得吃点野菜青菜很好,很清淡。早餐全是米线米粉面条,晚餐个别家有这些,大部分没有。粥那是早晚都没有,想喝的自备吧。米酒跟白酒一样,我不爱喝。

早上9.45吃过早餐出发在村子里继续转悠,12点转回来吃午餐。村子很小,从第一程马车再最后一程船,再加上拍照,总共两三个小时足够了,但有人喜欢这里的幽静,会多住几天,我们住两晚一是放松心情,更主要的是对当地不熟悉,多放了一些时间。我现在详细说一下我觉得坝美村应该怎么玩,先放张图,按图说明。

5 Days Puzhehei and Bamei Travel Experience

买门票的地方是法利村,第一程马车是从法利村到出水洞村。然后坐船经过桃源洞到水车下船就是坝美村。坝美村客栈集中,是景区中心地带,选择住在这些是对的。

从嬉水区到中洞是坐船的,途经猴爬岩,门票副券有一个就是猴爬岩,我以为是个景区,实际就是坐船时,船工说那个山像个猴子。如果他不说,那你根本不知道有这么个地方,换句话说,猴爬岩就是一程船票。从中洞到河谷风光是一段马车,从河谷风光到汤那洞是最后一程船。当然整个行程反过来走也是一样的。

如果你只是想到此一游的话,当天往返是来得及的。如果想住一晚也可以,进入坝美村时的一程马车一程船已经开始了游览,后面的马车和船是一样的感受,没有太大区别。所以在坝美村住下后只需在村中心游览,无需坐后面的马车和船,留着出村时再顺路游览。我们没经验,从头走到尾,忽又意识到还要回去,反正副券撕完就花钱,6元每人次,倒也是便宜,只是没这个必要吧。如果就这种感觉,那请随意哈。

像我这样安排两晚住宿,实在是没经验所致。我们到嬉水区问次日最早何时发船时,村民说8点,但如果这样算,我们赶不上火车了,人家建议我们还从原路返回,因为那边7点多就有船出去了,而且那边路程短。所以我们联系了送我们来的包车师傅,让他次日8.30还在售票处等。然后我们把后半段的马车和船坐了,返回时花了钱。

5 Days Puzhehei and Bamei Travel Experience

此处附上工作时间表,早8.00到18.00.

再来欣赏一下中心区域的坝美村,整个村子180度依山而建,来几张照片

5 Days Puzhehei and Bamei Travel Experience

5 Days Puzhehei and Bamei Travel Experience

孩子们就在这个小河里撑船,游泳。我儿子在水里玩得不亦乐乎,还跟当地孩子们一起爬树,我觉得这才叫童年啊。

5 Days Puzhehei and Bamei Travel Experience

我就坐在这里看孩子们嬉水爬树,看远山看田地看农舍,看蓝天白云,很是惬意。

5 Days Puzhehei and Bamei Travel Experience

5 Days Puzhehei and Bamei Travel Experience

5 Days Puzhehei and Bamei Travel Experience

5 Days Puzhehei and Bamei Travel Experience

这是村里有名的大榕树
友情提示:天气预报不可不信亦不可全信,特别是10天以上的预报,误差过大。因为天气预报说会下雨而且是中雨,我们的行程从3月下旬改到3月底又再改到4月初,不能再改了,下刀子也要去。结果到了此地一片艳阳。雨伞带了不少,防晒一点没带。出去晒半天孩子白白嫩嫩的脸黑了一层,紫外线很厉害。中午太阳特别晒,只能在屋里睡觉,到16.00再出去,依然又晒又热。穿着方面我觉得夏装短袖短裤即可,但太阳一下山,温差立刻出现,换长裤长袖较为合适。

友情提示:村里的小卖部东西比较贵,农夫山泉3块一瓶,冰棍4块一根。在村里转悠一圈,有个古榕客栈不错,卫生间装修很好还是马桶。房费在80-150之间。客栈一部分在携程上,一部分在去哪儿,大家可以比较一下。

第三天,6.30起床,吃过早餐坐船和马车返回售票处,8.27坐上包车,9.17到高铁。我们订的是10.14的高铁去普者黑,10.49到达。我们前一天联系了普者黑荷堂粤色客栈老板,她帮忙联系了包车,60元。在出站口等我们11.00上车,车开得不快,11.30到达。路上还大概给我们讲解了景点怎么玩。住下后先吃饭再休息,同样下午16.00才又出发,被晒死拉倒,一路骂死了天气预报,雨伞当遮阳伞用了。

客栈离三生三世的外景地很近,我们慢慢走了15分钟。我觉得景致一般,湖中间有个人造的茅草亭和假桃树。

5 Days Puzhehei and Bamei Travel Experience

18.00直接去青龙山去看落日。此处有个糟心的事,从岔路口走到青龙山也就不到10分钟,但开始我们不知道,于是叫了马车明确地问车夫坐马车到青龙山要多久,老头儿说要10多分钟。于是我们上了车,结果不到3分钟就到了,每人5块钱。心里被坑得很不舒服,为了挣钱良心坏了。早知道这么近何必坐马车?

青龙山不高,20多分钟就上去了,可惜没看到全部日落,看了看普者黑全景就下山了。19.00天还很亮呢。

5 Days Puzhehei and Bamei Travel Experience

这两处景点都很一般,还是在6-7月荷花开时来这里比较好,此时来什么都没有,属于淡季,客栈也不用提前订,都是空房。住宿最好选在离青龙山近的地方,我住的客栈周边又都是客栈,但卫生间也多是蹲坑,但相对坝美,房间倒是少了些乡土气息。

第四天,按老板的推荐我们上午去了摆龙湖,从客栈过去单程1小时,包车130,门票60,坐船游览一圈50分钟。其实是个水库,面积很大,水也不错,但景致一般,性价比较低,不必去。下午15.10出发去天鹅湖湿地公园,叫了马车,开价10元一人,砍价后6元一人,走着。15.34到后想在淘宝买票,但当天必须在早8点前买电子票才能兑换,65一人,但此时已经不行了,于是门口买票80一人,老人(可能是60或65以上)半价。同时我们被告知16.00天鹅就回窝了,我们此时走过去就看不到了,只能坐电瓶车10块一人。于是买了票等车过去。还真看到了天鹅,黑的白的很多,果然16.00就都被赶回窝了。

5 Days Puzhehei and Bamei Travel Experience

5 Days Puzhehei and Bamei Travel Experience

We were a little late when we went there. There was barely anyone in the big park, especially after Swan came back, just a few of us walking there. It’s beautiful and comfortable artistic conception with less people around. I think this is the best view spot that I ever visited in PUZHEHEI(普者黑). Of course it’s better if lotus bloom. I would come again in the summer if there are opportunities.

We still take carriage to return back. Carriage become the main local transportation vehicle. This time, it’s done by 5 RMB. You could imagine the profits and it made me feel not so good that the people in PUZHEHEI(普者黑) are not as simplicity and honest as the people in Bamei (坝美) At least, it’s my impression.

In the evenings, there will be performances if guests are full or a group live in. And since there are many inns, we had seen three performances in one evening, which were distinctive but the sound was a little too high which made my heart uncomfortable.

Day 5 Basically, it is a return journey day.  We took the high-speed rail from PUZHEHEI(普者黑) to Kunming (昆明) schedule time-am 8:58-am10:20. Our relatives in Kunming accompanied us to the Laoyuhe Park( 捞鱼河).  No tickets required for it’s just finished development. It’s a good place for local people to have fun but no need for tourist’s special visit. The flight was severely delayed for 8 hours, which we boarded on the plane by am 3:30 (planned as 20:05 of the evening’s flight). When finally arrived in Beijing, it’s already the day time and got only 200 RMB for delay compensation. We had a very deep sleep for a whole day to make up the night rest we lost.
Chinese Version: http://you.ctrip.com/travels/yunnan100007/3411347.html