Hiking Tour from Niru Village of Shangri-la to Daocheng Yading Nature Reserve

Lijiang, is a place where messy memory do not recombine and do not recall. It can be cure people in 2008, but now people tread on it.

In the morning, we go to Shuhe Old Town where full of memories, not more than in the past. The whole town is fulled of strong commercial atmosphere, newly built wood house and irritating smell in everywhere, the cyan stone road was repaved as well. There is many place is taking wedding photos, rental housing can be seen everywhere, many advertisement of rent inn bring some sense of visual disgust here.

Now, the beautiful city is gone, not warm and close any more, even the sunshine would not give she a glance of favor, she is full of tired. We walk in front of “heaven” bookstore and want to go in, but we stay those memories in a little book, so let her disappear in here.

Now, Shuhe Old Town is all of the people who is taking wedding photos, they early occupied much favorable place, we just want sit in a stone bridge for a break, we heard “excuse me, please moving aside”, immediately many of “fuck” across my brain.

Mr.Li is the oldest among us, beside he rode on bicycle yesterday, he felt exhausted and go back when we walk to halfway, the rest of our three person go on.

We can just met tow or three villager all the way, but there is very much workers pigs, they are clever and show no fear, just look the stranger with self-defence, we had the feeling that they will break out a power behind their little body.

In the way, we saw sunflower that not face the sun stay here lonely, gesang flower stay quietly in the corner to blossoming, cowherd’s smiling mouth said ” Zha-Xi-De-Le ”, children sit on the doorstep waiting for parents go back home. Every scene do not mess about each other but full of warmth.

Finally, we walk to the edge of the village and see the stone tablet, due to we have no time to lose, just take a few photos and rushed home. We have to return before six o’clock, so Mr.Zhang hinder a tractor that pick up the grasses, ask the driver to offer we a ride. It is the first time we rode with so many glasses, we sit on the mow with the voice ”Dong-Dong-Dong”, a few minutes later we arrived at the uncle’s house.

We walk faster again, along the pathway is uphill, river crossing or eat walnut that fall from the walnut tree, I feel that we walked for a long time. When I saw my teammate, I show them the photos. It is not in vain for came to the secret environment.

We have dinner in uncle Gesang’s house, we take a group photo that the only we have. There is solar energy, so we can take a bath, but take better in afternoon because the night is too cold that we might have a could. Or you can choose don’t have a shower if you don’t have cleanliness.

In the third day, we get up early to pack luggage and stay it for horse carry, actually, it’s not real horse but mule. Mr.Shi said that horse have aspiration, donkey is very stubborn, only mule is take orders quietly and no complain. We carried our little bag and set off after we have lunch. At the beginning it is relaxed, all are primary forest and gentle slope. Wild mushrooms and strange trees in everywhere.

One of the tree is very old but we don’t know it’s already grow how many years. There is a hole in his stump, it’s look like a door, we don’t know how many secret hide in it. Many mottled mark in trunk explain his all life will left. We stop to take some photos when we felt tired.

His body had been exhausted, his soul was gave new life, metempsychosis is not disappeared.

Caravan of horse is start to boil water to make buttered tea when we not yet arrived the lunch place. I go to get a cup of water and uncle give me a cheese, it taste not very well and might be smoked.

On the way to Yakou Mountain Pass, there is many rubble, you will glide a distance if you don’t step on it steadily, but the slope is not very steep. The road is easy to walk, we climb up slowly. We walked about tow hours in the rubble and forest, across Yakou we can see a lake. Those pain form body and struggle from mind are all disappeared just one second ago. Selie Lake is the most beautiful view at present.

Selie Lake(it means golden pasture lake in Zang language), we met suddenly hail and a heavy rain when we crossed Yakou. There is no blue sky, no fleecy clouds and sunshine, we don’t see the most beautiful view of the lake.

Acroos the lake is Nanbao Meadow, I didn’t know why I had a stomachache, maybe the high altitude or the lower temperature. The ache suddenly make me had a lot cold sweat, my step became so slower and slower that I walked as the last one in whole team.

Everybody still move on, we must arriving at campsite before dark. Only Mr.Li is aware of my uncomfortable face, he walks and tells a story to me to divert my attention. I feel a great rush of sickness, finally I spit out all foods. And then I feel better but before I had gone very far the ache came again. So I bear my pain and go on, only the way under my foot in my eyes, the vast meadow beside me is not in my sight.

We saw a rainbow when we almost arrive Xinzhaihe Meadow, maybe sunshine pity on my weak persistence, my mood become better.

On the way from Nanbao Meadow to Xinzhaihe Meadow, Mr.Li’s encouragement waft in my ears, such as”come on, you are the best”. I’m glad to you accompany me to the campsite. Mr.Shi start cooking when I arrived at the campsite, everybody is busy, only me, I have a rest in tent after take some medicine.

I come out from tent in the morning, I am in a good mood today. When I see the meadow that just like a fairy tale, I feel pass through to Switzerland.

The sun came out when we leave, mottled shadow light whole meadow, I really want to stay here.

Stand by mountain’s side and look for opposite, we can see the shadow keep flickering, I really want to stay here.

There is a mountain, it seems that he is waiting for you but always walking on the road. The first time I look up, he is waiting for me. The second time I look up, he is still waiting for me but just a little far. The third time I look up, nobody in there. I look up again, noting in there, and I will go on by myself. Okay, there is just one road.

Across the Sela Pass, in the gran meadow blossoming many blue gentian flower. That wait with hardship all together in the uninhabited plateau, I feel a desolate beauty.

Sunshine cross her body, and it become so transparent and clean that I want protect her.

Move slowly is a practice as well, walk on the gran meadow lonely, can not see the boundary of blue sky, a sheet of cloud is always follower, sunshine is so close to me, and gentian flowers in everywhere.

The world is not alone, we can feel heartbeat is a happiness. So relax, so free, I want to fly.

Across the Sela Pass we arrived at lunch place, beautiful fairy tales still go on, it still by our side and never go away. The shadow on- again off- again, so free.

The second day always is the same except yesterday my stomachache, I suffer from and decide to go outside with Mr.Shi.

After an hour we see a mountain steam, as a song sings” somebody say the mountain steam is a tear that lie on the earth, a tear at the edge of my pillow, it will be a lake in your heart”, the song is always around our side.

There is many black yaks in the edge of lake, when we go through we can’t take photos because we ‘re afraid to interrupt them so that they will think we are unexpected guests.

Across the lake is a metalled path, it’s very hard to walk. Some place we need to lean to one side go through, if we’re not careful we’ll fall down.

I would have thought follow Mr.Shi we’ll walk slower, but I was wrong. He go straight alone and said:” go faster, go faster”, we will arrive at campsite before dark. I look for his back with tearless grief.

I look back the road we have walked, I feel I’m very grateful, whenever we insist and we will overcome all difficulties.

When we go through Rida Pass again(elevation of about 4500 metres), I almost close to emotional breakdown. The first time I was endure the pain of stomach and comfortable lungs, every five step I must stop to have a rest. The second time is when we arrived the Pass, the things that we should have not completed I challenged successfully. When I saw the prayer flags of the Pass, every bad thing would not appear in the life, life can knows his power only in the time when we struggle.

The prayer flags and marnyi stones of Rida Pass, we should have see the real face of three mystical mountains, but we don’t see anything.

Thanks for Mr.Li, he always compares handsome with Mr.Shi, but I think it is not necessary, because he is so warm and kind. All the way, where is a few of water on the road he will put a stone on it, worried about we can go through. The whole way I followed him and he always encouraged me, his rational analysis is better than leader’s route. There is a kind of move and trust, it is the view of his back.

We walk down the slope and arrive the campsite at half past seven, the sky is total dark. At the Pass I haven’ t wear a thick cloth so I resist with cold wind, the clod numbed my body when I arrive at the campsite, it seems like I will fall down at any moment. I use my final consciousness choose to live, go to a friend’s tent for hide the wind. I stick warm pastes on my feet before curl up my sleeping bag, this time I don’t feel very hot. It is dawn when I awake and fund my body is warm, so touching.

In the morning, I see the sunshine covered the whole meadow, feel so excited. The mountain become shorter, it’s so close to sun. Sky, cloud, grass, sunshine. Horses wallow merrily at the meadow, yaks bow his head to eat grasses, ignore me. Everybody is printed a long shadow go lazily around, it is a different view with Sela Meadow.

This horse is still looking at me, cooperate well to look the camera. I am very nervous and worry about he will suddenly crush to me.

We set off after have breakfast and pack up the tent, today our route is almost declivity but still very tired. We go through a withered forest, it is said that is struck by lightning so that burnt all, it seems like a view of ghost castle. 

All the way are this trees. Xiao xiami (a friend) says it is a parasitic plant, only live in altitude 3000 to 3500.

The road downward and we walk all day. Just bow the head to go, the feet and legs are exhausted, the head is dizzy. There is no any views in our eyes, just want go downhill faster. When we have a rest in a Pass, xiao xiami (a friend) take out a apple and I ask her to give me a half, fortunately, the half of apple encourage me go downhill very well.

We walk arrive Nigong Village about at four o’clock, and then we rent a car to Kasi Village, in the way jin shan(a friend) buy me a Sprite, suddenly I feel the Sodas are so delicious, finally I taste the sweet for a few days.

Kasi Village is the most beautiful Tibetan village that I have seen. The house and road all are build by stones. There is a bridge in the edge of the village, a road in the edge of the bridge, a hot spring in the edge of the road. Waving prayer flags and villagers in the tribe of the Hell Canyon take some mysterious Tibetan language for this place, holy and close.

Mr.Shi says here is still preserved the original traditional custom, such as the female can’t eat on the table, female can decide anything important. Previously, here is only receive guests in the house of village head, now there is some houses can do like this.

I really want to take some photos with the stone wall, even Jinshan also want to, and he is already to go posed just waiting for a camera. Be honestly, you cooperate well with the wall, and the photographer is very good.

After we have breakfast we star to pick up our luggage and then begin the most difficult journey. We have to walk from the village to the campsite in a day, the altitude from 2800 metres to 4413 metres, and no have any downhill all roads are climbing. We down from the altitude about 4000 the previous day but now we will go up, self- abuse is always a psychological, physical challenge.

At the entrance of Kasi Hell Canyon, there is a marnyi stones, a prayer flag around it, suddenly a gloomy atmosphere fill the air. Mr.Shi says the Tibetan people sacrifice by burial in the ground, there are several beside, some stones covered on it.

We continue to advance, after enter the hell canyon the tree seems become gloomy and horrible. Some stones growing out mosses and cloudy day without sun, there are many Marnyi stones, all scene looks like a real hell. Nobody say a word but walk with soft step.

When we go through a Marnyi stones I pick up a stone and put it in the highest, put my temporal affairs own also help the stone accomplish it’s dream.

When I see the flowers on the sides of road, I want to take some photos for keep the most beautiful smile in their life.

Today, Jinshan is very kind, he is still walk in front of me so that I can always see him. But each time I raise my hand I can see a expression that folded his arms over his chest, I could only nail him in a tree.

This is a double trunk tree, they grow up together and hug each other. Every time some couple admire it when they go through, even the best friends. Mr.Shi and Jinshan hug each other and cast sheep’s eyes at the double trunk tree.

A ”come on”, a “Zha- Xi- De- Le” is a huge encouragement. Thanks for all people we met on the way.

We arrive at the lunch place in Kasi Cowshed, Kasi Hell Canyon completely exposed in front of our eyes, actually it is not very horrible as our imagination. We have a rest about an hour and we have to go, even the distance is shorter but the slope is more steeper, and the altitude raise up very fast. Across the Pass, there is bush slope.

We arrive campsite at five o’clock, we are shaken by Xiannairi and Yangmaiyong, we feel excited again. Just now the pain and hardship from physical and psychological are all disappeared when we see the mysterious mountain.

I’m so happy that take pictures in around, Jinshan says he will help me to pitch a tent,because he worry about I will have altitude sickness. He carry my bag when we come back, he is really a warm and close man.

Today, Mr.Li cooking. We can eat rice and vegetables in here, it is a happy thing. We finish all food and ramen, it is so pleased.

In the morning, about six o’clock we go out tent and see the wild, blue sky, a few of stars in the sky. It is rained at about five o’clock. It’s very cold. I am not sure we will care the air, maybe because we’re in the hill of Magical Mountain.

We eat some breads and leave for snow mountain and cross the Songduo Pass. Mr.Shi still rush forward, when he stop to wait for us, he is so far away from us, I’m trying my best to chest him.

The Songduo Pass was 4644 metres above sea level. Sharp rubble and Marnyi stones in everywhere. Look around just black, white, gray in our eyes, without any color. There is a lake in the pass, the water is very cleaning.

There is a clear lake after climbing Songduo Mountain Pass.

We go through the Marnyi Stones and Prayer Flags and down slope, there is many horse caravan.

Round the Xiannairi is the Yangmaiyong, it is very true in the sunshine, we are so close to it. The horse caravan stop here, and we put our palms together devoutly and pray.

Mr.Shi looked the Yangmaiyong and keep the posture. Okay, the photo send to Mr. Shi.

Mr.Li and Wang feng met us in here. Because Wang feng’s leg is hurt, Mr.Li’s body is not comfortable, so that they can not go with us and they ride mule go to Milk Sea.

In the hill of Xinairi Magical Mountain and Yangmaiyong, there is a group of colorful prayer flags. When Tibetan people go through they will put a prayer flag on it, use their forehead to knock the stone devoutly, they have faith in heart, they revere gods.

Round the Yangmaiyong we can see the most beautiful blue water, the Milk Sea.

In the left of Milk Sea is Five Color Sea, there is less tourists than Milk Sea. We don’t go the regular way. We climb a 50 degrees slope to see Five Color Sea, the altitude about 4600 metres. The high wind makes me feel have some headache, we stay a short time and go down, many tourists on they way.

Before we leave, we take a photo with the Magical Mountain. Goodbye, Xiannairi.

After go downhill we see the Luorong Cattle Farm.

We walked four hours, then go to by bus. I was crowd in the hill of mountain, I feel so tired, maybe the tired from heart not body. I told Xiaoxiami that I don’t want carry my bag, and she said she will carry my bag. But she is still pick up her bag. Everybody continue go forward, Mr.Shi come to me carry my bag on his back and say:” just go”.
Wow, a man most handsome is now.

The dull Mr.Zhang already posed, Xiao xiami threw her head back and go forward, does not turn her head back.

Mr.Shi seems like hurry to go Daocheng, he was the last one, but when I turn my head back he is the first on in our queue, and he told me:”you are the most relaxed”.

Jinshan take my bag from Mr.Shi’s hands, he ask me to accept his requirement, okay, at the moment I will accept whatever.

Wang feng carry his bag and look for us. Mr.Li is already exhausted, he looks at me, it seems like he says:”don’t look at me like that, I am exhausted as well, I can’t carry your bag, just crying if you want”.

We rent a car to go Daocheng, we live in the Zhuo Ma youth hostel that we have booked already, 80 Yuan each person(it is very cheap in the period of National Day). The boss and his wife are very young, many photos stuck on the wall, they might be hobbyists of outdoor activities. I sent some postcards from here to my friends, wish you can come to this beautiful place.

And then we have lunch, I mightily recommend to eat matsutake stewed chicken at the restaurant that have good reputation on internet. There are many customers in the restaurant, you will wait some time if you go lately, the tastes of dishes are very well. Daocheng is not so large that we get all around just take an half hours. After dinner we go to E Chu street(Daocheng pedestrian street), there are many shops sells turquoises. At the back, a shop named Tao Tao Zang Di, it’s decoration is distinctive, it’s beads are cheap. We bargain with the boss, if he think the prices is in reason he will sell to us. Beside the street, a uncle push a car that many beads on it. If you want buy a souvenir for your friends you can buy from there. A hand beads cost 20 Yuan and you can bargain.

When we come back to inn we see some girls round a circle in the yard, somebody is singing. We go there see Mr.Shi is charmed, playing the guitar and singing, is the reason why the girls here. Xiao xiami and Mr.Zhang come back too, we round to listening to Mr.Shi singing and drinking bears. Even though our journey is hard, our thought that yearning for freedom will always exist.

In the dawn of second morning we leave for take plane, because there is only one plane from Daocheng to Xian everyday, at half of nine, but the bus to airport just in six o’clock. We arrive at airport before daybreak. Daocheng Yading Airport is the highest airport in the word, it’s altitude about 4392 metres, it’s surface looks like a UFO, really beautiful.

Goodbye, Niru.
Goodbye, Shangri-La.
Goodbye, Daocheng Yading.
Goodbye, my friends.
Goodbye, the time on the way.

Chinese Version: http://www.mafengwo.cn/i/5351765.html