Chicken Porridge of Hani Ethnic Group
The traditional chicken porridge made by the Hani ethnic group (哈尼族) is a special delicacy, representing the highest form of hospitality. A bowl of fragrant chicken porridge embodies the deep affection of the Hani people. During my stay in a Hani village, I had the privilege of enjoying this generous feast, where big bowls of wine and large chunks of meat were served, all while the rich aroma of the porridge lingered in the air.
Preparation of Hani Chicken Porridge
One of the most iconic dishes of the Hani people, chicken porridge is made by pounding rice and caoguo (a type of spice) in a stone mill, boiling free-range chicken until tender, then removing the chicken and leaving the rich broth in the pot. Rice is added along with small bitter leaves, and after an hour of slow cooking, the flavorful chicken porridge is ready to be served.
The chicken porridge is made using local free-range chicken, fresh rice, and a variety of wild vegetables. The process begins by placing the rice and local chicken into a pot, adding slices of ginger, star anise, caoguo, and salt, and slowly simmering over a wood fire. As the broth boils and the grains soften, the porridge takes on a creamy texture. When the rice is fully cooked and the chicken releases its aroma, the whole chicken is taken out, chopped, and plated.
The freshly prepared porridge is full of fragrance, steaming hot, and has a soft, rich texture. A bowl of this porridge can both satisfy hunger and serve as a delicious dish.
The Essential “Soul” Dipping Sauce
A unique aspect of Hani chicken porridge is the “soul” dipping sauce. The dipping sauce, which accompanies the porridge, is unlike any other. It is made by combining mashed boiled eggs with the broth from the porridge, along with various wild herbs used as seasoning. The sauce is both a dip and a flavorful dish on its own. When paired with the tender chicken, the flavors are complex—fresh, spicy, fragrant, and rich—further enhancing the taste of the chicken porridge.
The Origin Story of Hani Chicken Porridge
The origin of this porridge is rooted in an old tale: A widow worked tirelessly to raise her children, often forgoing her own meals. As the children grew older, she became weak and ill, eventually bedridden and unable to eat. In a gesture of gratitude, the children slaughtered their only old hen, removed its bones, and cooked a pot of fragrant chicken porridge. When their mother smelled the aroma, she was able to sit up and eat. Over time, as the children continued to prepare the porridge for her, she gradually regained her strength and health. The entire village came to congratulate her, and from then on, the method of making this “life-saving porridge” was passed down. Now, during festivals or when important guests arrive, the Hani people serve a bowl of chicken porridge to honor them.
Historical and Cultural Background
The tradition of eating porridge in China can be traced back over 4,000 years to the era of the Five Emperors. According to ancient texts like the Book of Zhou (周书), Emperor Huangdi (黄帝) first steamed grains to make rice and boiled them into porridge. The distinction between rich and poor is often reflected in food: the wealthy enjoyed rich soups, while the poor had to make do with porridge. Famous poet Bai Juyi (白居易) once wrote about receiving a bowl of porridge from the emperor, claiming that the taste lingered for seven days, though some suspect he was exaggerating for effect.
A poem by Ming dynasty poet Zhang Fangxian (张方贤) illustrates the difference between rich soups and humble porridge:
“煮饭何如煮粥强。好同女儿细商量。
一升可作二升用，两日堪为六日粮；
有客只须添水火，无钱不必问羹汤。
莫言淡泊少滋味，淡泊之中滋味长。”
Porridge was often a necessity in times of poverty and hardship. Famous figures like Cao Xueqin (曹雪芹), author of Dream of the Red Chamber (红楼梦), described his family’s reliance on porridge during difficult times. In an anecdote about Confucian scholar Zhu Xi (朱熹), it is said that his daughter, faced with poverty, served him a humble meal of wheat porridge and scallion soup. Zhu Xi’s parting words to her were immortalized in a poem:
“汤葱麦饭两相宜，葱补丹田麦疗饥。
莫谓此中滋味薄，前村还有未炊时。”
The Difference Between Soup (羹) and Porridge (粥)
Historically, there were significant differences between soup and porridge. Soup was primarily made with meat, while porridge was made from grains. Wealthy families would add meat to their soups, while poorer families would use vegetables. Porridge could be prepared plain or with the addition of meat, vegetables, or beans. Both soup and porridge reflect the richness of China’s traditional culinary culture.
A Delight of Rural Life
In Huikuan Old Village (回宽老寨), part of Yaoqu Township (瑶区乡) near the Wangtianshu Scenic Area (望天树景区), the traditional rural lifestyle and abundant natural beauty are on full display. The village is surrounded by lush greenery and vibrant flowers, and the people live in harmony with nature. Here, the cuisine is as unique as the landscape, offering delights such as chicken porridge, bamboo-cooked roasted meat, grilled river fish, and fried beef tendons. These traditional foods are a testament to the local culture, making this area an excellent place to experience both nature and traditional farming life.
Other Local Delicacies Include:
- Bamboo-cooked roasted meat (竹筒包烧肉)
- Grilled river fish (包烧小河鱼)
- Cold chicken salad (凉拌鸡肉)
- Lemongrass grilled fish (香茅草烤鱼)
- Fried beef jerky (油炸干巴)
- Stewed banana heart with elephant ear leaves (芭蕉心煮象耳朵叶)
- Stir-fried white flowers (爆炒白花)
- Tomato-dipped bitter bamboo shoots (苦笋蘸番茄)
- Sour vegetable and meatball soup (酸菜肉丸汤)
These dishes, along with the famous chicken porridge, represent the essence of the Hani people’s culinary traditions. Their deep respect for nature and food is evident in every bite, reflecting a harmonious balance between people and the land.
