History of Chinese Tea Culture

The origin of tea history in China is a subject of much debate, with various theories including the Pre-Qin, Western Han, and Three Kingdoms periods. Tea began to emerge as a cultural phenomenon during the Two Jin and Northern Dynasties, with early enthusiasts mostly being literati and scholars. After the Kaiyuan period of the Tang Dynasty, the “tea culture” in China flourished, and the trend of drinking tea spread across both the court and the common people. The Song Dynasty continued the tea-drinking trend from the Tang Dynasty, making it increasingly popular. The Tea Sage Lu Yu authored “The Classic of Tea” (《茶经》). The “Shennong Bencao Jing” also contains records about tea.

Brief Overview of Tea History

China has a long history of tea drinking, and it is difficult to pinpoint the exact period of its origin. However, there are general theories about its era, and evidence suggests that the habit of drinking tea spread from China to many parts of the world. Consequently, many believe that tea drinking was originally created by the Chinese, and practices related to tea drinking and cultivation in other parts of the world were directly or indirectly derived from China. Nevertheless, some evidence indicates that the habit of drinking tea was not solely invented by the Chinese but also originated in other places such as India and Africa. In 1823, a British officer discovered wild tea trees in India, leading to some beliefs that India, at least partly, might be the origin of tea. China also has records of wild tea trees, mostly concentrated in the southwestern regions, with some records extending to Gansu and Hunan. Tea trees are an ancient dicotyledonous plant closely related to human life.

In China, there are several theories about the earliest origin of tea trees. Many today believe that Yunnan is the original place. A scholar, after detailed research, asserts that Xishuangbanna in Yunnan is the origin of tea trees. The earliest written record of cultivated tea trees begins with Mengshan tea during the Western Han Dynasty, as noted in the “Sichuan Tongzhi” (《四川通志》).

The exact location is less important for modern tea drinkers, though it may have cultural significance. We can explore some scholarly theories.

Overview of Tea History

China is the origin of tea. The familiarity of tea among Chinese people extends from emperors and high officials, literati and scholars, to common people and laborers. It is often said, “The seven necessities of life are firewood, rice, oil, salt, soy sauce, vinegar, and tea,” indicating that tea has permeated all levels of society. Ethnic minorities also enjoy tea, such as Tibetan butter tea and Mongolian milk tea.

Tea culture appeared during the Two Jin and Northern Dynasties. Its origins can be traced back to the Han Dynasty, with formal documentation (e.g., Wang Bao’s “Tongyue” (《僮约》)). Early tea enthusiasts were mostly literati and scholars. In Chinese literary history, Sima Xiangru and Yang Xiong, famous tea lovers, are mentioned in Han Fu (汉赋). Sima Xiangru wrote “Fanjiang Pian” (《凡将篇》), and Yang Xiong wrote “Fangyan” (《方言》), discussing tea from medicinal and literary perspectives. Zhang Zai from the Jin Dynasty wrote in “Deng Chengdu Lou Shi” (《登成都楼诗》): “Inquire about Yangzi’s home, I long to see Changqing’s cottage,” and “Fragrant tea surpasses the six emotions, its taste spreads across nine regions.”

Tea culture began with the Confucian idea of active involvement in the world. During the Two Jin and Northern Dynasties, perceptive politicians proposed “using tea to maintain integrity” to counteract the luxury of the time. Since the Wei and Jin Dynasties, with societal turmoil and scholars unable to reform the world, a trend toward simplicity emerged. Scholars who engaged in high-level discussions required stimulating beverages, leading to the popularity of banquets, and initially, the purists were often wine drinkers, such as the Seven Sages of the Bamboo Grove. Later, as the trend toward simplicity spread among general literati, tea became preferred over wine for those who could drink all day without becoming intoxicated. Thus, many tea enthusiasts emerged.

Origin Time

Introduction

The origin of tea drinking is still widely debated, with various theories including Shennong, Shang Zhou, Western Han, and Three Kingdoms periods.

Shennong Theory

Lu Yu, based on the “Shennong’s Materia Medica” (《神农食经》) which states “Tea, when consumed for a long time, invigorates and pleases the spirit,” believes tea drinking began during the Shennong era, asserting “Tea as a drink originated from Shennong” (《茶经·六之饮》). Shennong, or Yandi, was a tribal leader in ancient China, alongside the Yellow Emperor. However, modern scholars have dated “Shennong’s Materia Medica” to the Han Dynasty and consider its mention of tea as legend rather than historical fact.

Shang Zhou Theory

According to the Eastern Jin Dynasty’s “Huayang Guo Zhi” (《华阳国志》) by Chang Qu, the Ba people offered tea and honey as tribute. This suggests that the Ba people living in southern Shaanxi were the earliest to use and cultivate tea in China, with a tea history of over 3,000 years.

Western Han Theory

In the Qing Dynasty, Hao Yixing in “Zhengsu Wen” (《证俗文》) stated: “The method of drinking tea first appeared in the late Han Dynasty, having begun to sprout in the early Han Dynasty.” Hao Yixing believed tea drinking started in the late Eastern Han Dynasty but had its origins in the Western Han Dynasty.

Wang Bao’s “Tongyue” includes references to “brewing tea,” and “Wu Yang buys tea,” generally believed to refer to tea. Wu Yang refers to present-day Pengshan County in Sichuan, indicating that tea drinking in China was not later than the 1st century BC.

It is believed that tea drinking in China began in the Western Han Dynasty, although the use of tea predates this period. The discovery and use of tea in China likely began before the Western Han Dynasty, possibly as early as the Shang Zhou period.

Development Time

Tea drinking in China began in the Western Han Dynasty with historical evidence. During this period, tea consumption was confined to Sichuan. Figures like Sima Xiangru, Wang Bao, and Yang Xiong from Sichuan made records of tea. During the Han Dynasty, tea, a Sichuan specialty, spread to the capital city Chang’an through tribute channels and gradually to the political, economic, and cultural centers of Shaanxi and Henan in northern China. Meanwhile, tea culture also spread along the Yangtze River to the middle and lower reaches of the Yangtze River. From the Western Han to the Three Kingdoms period, tea was a rare luxury item enjoyed mainly by the upper class, and ordinary people rarely drank tea. The “Records of the Three Kingdoms” (《三国志》) mentions “secretly granting tea to replace wine,” indicating that tea was used in the Wu Kingdom’s court.

In the Southern Dynasties, the trend continued. For example, He Fasheng’s “Book of the Revival of the Jin Dynasty” (《晋中兴书》) recorded that during Lu Na’s tenure as the governor of Wuxing, “General Xie An often visited, and when he arrived, only tea and fruit were prepared.” Liu Kun’s letter to his nephew in the Western Jin Dynasty mentioned, “I suffer from discomfort and constantly use real tea for relief.” Similarly, Liu Yiqing’s “New Sayings of the World” (《世语新说》) refers to tea. During the Northern and Southern Dynasties, tea drinking became more prevalent among scholars and officials, and even ordinary people drank tea.

Formation Time

In the Middle Tang Dynasty, Feng Yan’s “Feng Shi Wen Jian Ji” (《封氏闻见记》) noted that “people in the south liked tea, while those in the north initially did not. During the Kaiyuan period, a monk from Mount Tai’s Lingyan Temple promoted Zen Buddhism, which allowed tea drinking as they did not eat dinner. This practice spread and became a trend.” Feng Yan believed Zen Buddhism contributed to the formation of tea drinking in the north. After the Kaiyuan period in the Tang Dynasty, tea culture flourished throughout China, becoming a widespread practice.

In the late Tang Dynasty, Yang Hua’s “Shanfu Jing Shou Lu” (《膳夫经手录》) recorded that “by the Kaiyuan and Tianbao periods, tea was gradually introduced; it became more prevalent during the Dezong and Dali periods and thrived after the Jianzhong period.” Lu Yu’s “Classic of Tea” (《茶经》) mentioned that tea culture had become widespread by the Tang Dynasty’s two capitals, Luoyang and Chang’an, and the surrounding regions.

Both “Classic of Tea” and other historical records agree that before the Kaiyuan period, tea drinking was not widespread, but after the Kaiyuan period, especially after the Jianzhong period (780 AD), tea drinking became universal among all social classes, including the nobility, scholars, and common people in the central plains and frontier ethnic minority areas. Tea houses began to appear, offering tea to all, regardless of social status, indicating tea’s growing role in society.

Origin Location

Introduction

Research often focuses on the origin of tea trees. There are several theories about the origin of tea trees:

Southwest Yunnan

In 1981, a group of experts led by Professor Liu Renjian from Yunnan Agricultural University visited Xishuangbanna and its surroundings, studying the ecological distribution of tea trees. They concluded that the “wild tea tree population in Xishuangbanna is the main gene pool for the modern cultivated tea tree.” Yunnan, and specifically Xishuangbanna, is considered the original place of tea trees.

Changning, Sichuan

Changning County in Sichuan, where the tea tree population is distributed, is often cited as an origin of tea cultivation. The “Classic of Tea” mentions that tea was first cultivated in Mengshan during the Western Han Dynasty.

Fujian, Jiangxi, Zhejiang

Some scholars argue that tea originated in Fujian, Jiangxi, or Zhejiang, where tea cultivation and consumption were early recorded. However, these theories lack direct evidence linking them to the earliest tea cultivation.

India

A theory posits that tea was first used in India, with historical records showing tea trees in India dating back to the 19th century. However, the earliest records of tea cultivation and consumption in China precede these discoveries, suggesting that tea’s origins are likely in China.

Yunnan’s Tea Origin

Yunnan Province’s tea origin theory is supported by evidence from ancient tea trees found in the region. The “Xishuangbanna Tea Tree Gene Pool” suggests that tea trees native to Yunnan are the earliest known. This supports the idea that tea’s cultivation and consumption began in Yunnan.

Tea Cultivation and Use

Tea Cultivation in Ancient Times

Tea cultivation in ancient China began in Yunnan, where tea trees were first cultivated. Ancient records mention tea cultivation in Yunnan as early as the Han Dynasty. The tea cultivation spread from Yunnan to other regions, including Sichuan and Fujian.

Tea Cultivation and Use in Historical China

Tea cultivation expanded from the Han Dynasty to the Tang and Song Dynasties. During these periods, tea cultivation and consumption became more widespread, with detailed records of tea cultivation practices and tea’s role in daily life. Tea became a staple beverage for all social classes, and its cultivation spread to various regions across China.

Tea Cultivation Practices

In ancient times, tea cultivation involved selecting and planting tea seeds, nurturing tea plants, and harvesting tea leaves. The cultivation process was labor-intensive, with attention to soil quality, climate conditions, and pest control. Traditional methods of tea processing, including drying and fermenting, were developed to improve tea quality and flavor.

Summary

Tea history in China is complex, with various theories about its origin and development. Yunnan Province is widely recognized as the original place of tea trees, with ancient records and evidence supporting its significance in tea cultivation. Tea’s role in Chinese culture and society evolved from a luxury item to a widespread beverage enjoyed by all social classes. The cultivation and use of tea spread across China, with significant developments during the Tang and Song Dynasties.