Nisai Village of Lugu Lake in Lijiang
Nizai Village (尼赛村) is a small Mosuo (摩梭族) natural village located by the scenic Lugu Lake (泸沽湖). Though it comprises only a few dozen households, the village is tranquil and boasts stunning views. The famous Lover’s Tree (情人树), a popular spot for visitors to take romantic photographs, is situated here. Many travelers stop by Nizai Village while touring around Lugu Lake, capturing the enchanting scenery of the Lover’s Tree. Additionally, the village serves as a boarding point for the cable car to Gemu Goddess Mountain (格姆女神山), allowing visitors to explore the mountain. Nizai Village also offers accommodations and dining options, making it a perfect place to stay overnight. Under a sky filled with stars, the Gemu Goddess peacefully rests near the village, and the Lover’s Tree quietly leans against the serene lakeside, creating a romantic atmosphere. In the early morning, the sun rises over the lake, gradually illuminating the world and immersing visitors in breathtaking beauty.
The Scenic Beauty of Nizai Village
A few Mosuo people lie on the grass, fully relaxed to embrace the Earth’s caress; several sheep and cows are loosely tethered to small wooden stakes on the meadow. As dusk descends, the lake water gently lapping against the pig trough boats (猪槽船) sets a calming ambiance. Listening to the sound of the waves brings a sense of tranquility, allowing one to fully enjoy the peaceful night. The starry sky and the vast universe silently observe the world below, deepening the sense of mystery and serenity, making the vast world seem suspended in time.
The Mosuo Marriage Tradition: Walking Marriage (走婚)
Nizai Village is one of the most primitive villages in Yunnan (云南) that still retains the tradition of “walking marriage” (走婚). When I first heard the term “walking marriage,” I didn’t quite understand it, even misinterpreting its meaning at first. However, as I delved deeper into my studies, I began to find it amusing when encountering the term again. Gradually, I pondered whether such customs still exist in modern China, or if any places still practice “walking marriage.” After some research, I discovered a place where this tradition has been preserved — the Mosuo people living around Lugu Lake (泸沽湖) in Lijiang (丽江). They have maintained the tradition of walking marriage for many years. Today, I will share with you my findings about Mosuo walking marriage culture, using Nizai Village as an example.
We all know that Yunnan is a mountainous and watery region. At the edge of Gemu Goddess Mountain (格姆女神山) and Lugu Lake, lies Nizai Village. This village is small, with a population that has never exceeded 100 over the years. It is one of the most primitive villages in Yunnan. If you wish to gain a deeper understanding of Mosuo walking marriage culture, visiting Nizai Village is an excellent choice.
Historical Background
The Mosuo (摩梭族) are a branch of the Naxi (纳西族) ethnic group, primarily residing in the northwestern part of Yunnan Province, near the Sichuan Province border by Lugu Lake. In Mosuo culture, women are regarded as the “backbone” of the family, which is why the Mosuo are often referred to as the “Kingdom of Daughters” (女儿国). Although not entirely composed of women, the proportion of women far exceeds that of men. As mentioned earlier, their marriages follow the “walking marriage” tradition.
What is walking marriage? In simple terms, it is a system where women take the lead. If a couple has a girl, the man and woman can form a family. However, if they have a boy, the man has no rights. This is contrary to the traditional patriarchal values.
Walking Marriage Culture
Walking marriage is a unique marital system that has developed in the matrilineal society of the Mosuo people. In Nizai Village, men and women rarely communicate face-to-face; they only convey their feelings during banquets and gatherings. When a man and woman are interested in each other, the man must go to the “Flower Building” (花楼). He cannot enter through the front door but must climb in through a window. During the walking marriage ceremony, some tokens are hung outside the Flower Building to prevent interference from others.
In Nizai Village, children are raised by their mothers. Couples only conduct the walking marriage ceremony if they are emotionally compatible. The famous Lover’s Tree in Nizai Village symbolizes that not just anyone can participate in walking marriage; it requires genuine affection.
Travel Recommendations for Nizai Village
To visit Nizai Village, it is advisable to start from Kunming (昆明) and make a circuit around Lugu Lake (泸沽湖), then ascend Gemu Mountain (格姆山) to reach Nizai Village. The elevation here is relatively high, so preparation is essential. The cable car is a great transport option in the mountainous area, where ordinary vehicles may struggle to navigate.
If you have the opportunity to explore Yunnan, whether it’s the beautiful Lugu Lake or Nizai Village, I hope you can experience the unique culture and charm of the Mosuo people up close.
Nizai Village Travel Guide
- Getting to Nizai Village: Nizai Village, located about three kilometers from Lige Village (里格村), is famous for the Lover’s Tree. The scenery here, with mountains on one side and the blue lake on the other, is truly enchanting. Many tourists choose to hike to Nizai Village, which consists of only a few dozen households built facing the lake. The kindness and warmth of the local people deeply touch many visitors. On sunny days, the shadows of trees and scattered clouds are reflected on the lake’s surface, and peaceful horses graze on dry grass in the fields, creating a serene and captivating scene.
- Arrival and Departure: You can hire a car or cycle to reach the village.
- Best Seasons to Visit: The ideal time for tourism is from March to October. In spring, peach and pear trees bloom beautifully, with the blue lake resembling a bright mirror. In summer, the lake glistens emerald green, shrouded in mist after rainfall. In autumn, golden leaves adorn the surrounding mountains, and the calls of geese resonate in the sky, presenting a scene of “wild geese flying alongside solitary ducks, with autumn waters mirroring the endless sky.”
- Suggested Duration: Plan to spend about 3-4 hours exploring.
- Admission Fee: Free.
Important Notes
- Be respectful of local customs and traditions to avoid unnecessary conflicts.
- Bring common medications for colds, stomach issues, mosquito repellent, heat relief, and seasickness.
- It’s advisable to travel in groups, especially at night. Solo female travelers or children should carry basic self-defense tools.
- A camera is essential; consider bringing sunscreen and other supplies based on your specific destination.
- Lijiang experiences a plateau monsoon climate with cooler temperatures and significant temperature variations between day and night. It’s best to check the weather forecast for Lijiang before your trip.
- Lijiang has strong sunlight and high UV levels. When engaging in outdoor activities for extended periods, wear a sun hat and apply sunscreen to protect your skin.
- Road conditions around Lugu Lake can be poor during the rainy season, with potential landslides. If self-driving, ensure safety by checking weather conditions before setting out.
How to Get There
To reach Nizai Village, you can travel from Lijiang (丽江) by bus or private vehicle, which typically takes around 2 to 3 hours. If you’re coming from Kunming (昆明), consider taking a flight or train to Lijiang first and then continuing your journey to Nizai Village.
Travel Tips
- Check the weather and road conditions ahead of time, especially during the rainy season.
- Be mindful of the local culture, as the Mosuo people have unique customs and practices.
- Carry sufficient cash, as not all places may accept credit cards.
- Enjoy the local cuisine and consider trying the Mosuo dishes while in the village.
Nisai Village (尼赛村), located near Lugu Lake (泸沽湖) in Lijiang, Yunnan Province, is a picturesque and culturally rich destination. Here’s an overview:
Nisai Village Overview
Location:
- Nisai Village is situated on the southern shore of Lugu Lake, which is straddling the border between Yunnan and Sichuan provinces.
- Distance: Approximately 40 kilometers (about 25 miles) from the center of Lijiang City.
Attractions:
- Lugu Lake: Known for its clear blue waters and stunning natural scenery. The lake is surrounded by mountains and is a popular spot for boating and photography.
- Moso People’s Culture: Nisai Village is home to the Moso (or Mosuo) ethnic group, who are renowned for their matrilineal society and unique cultural practices, including the “walking marriage” system.
- Traditional Architecture: The village features traditional Moso architecture, with wooden houses and scenic lake views.
Activities:
- Boating on Lugu Lake: Explore the serene waters of the lake by boat, offering beautiful views and a chance to experience local life.
- Hiking and Sightseeing: Enjoy the picturesque landscapes and hiking trails around the lake and the village.
- Cultural Experience: Visit local homes and cultural sites to learn more about the Moso people’s traditions and lifestyle.
