Wenbi Pagoda in Midu County, Dali
Overview
Wenbi Pagoda (文笔塔), also known as Huilong Pagoda (回龙塔), is situated atop Huilong Mountain (回龙山) in Midu County (弥渡县), Yunnan Province (云南省). Constructed during the Ming Dynasty (明朝) under the reign of Emperor Wanli (万历), it boasts over 400 years of history, dating back to between 1573 and 1620.
Architectural Structure
The pagoda stands approximately 16 meters tall and is designed as a solid brick hexagonal tower with a hipped roof. It features ten tiers, each adorned with decorative blue bricks protruding in a tooth-like pattern, giving it a sturdy and rustic appearance. The body of the tower is finished with white lime plaster, earning it the nickname “White Tower” (白塔) as noted in the Wanli edition of the Zhao Prefecture Gazetteer (《赵州志》).
Historical Records
On August 19, 1639, during the twelfth year of the Chongzhen reign (崇祯), the famous traveler Xu Xiake (徐霞客) set out from Menghua (蒙化, present-day Weishan) and entered Midu via Longqing Pass (隆庆关). In his travel journal, he noted: “I bought rice in the city, exited through the north gate, turned east along the wall for about a mile, where a peak curves from the southeast to the north, with a small pagoda atop it.”
Legends and Stories
During the Wanli period, local gentry observed that Huilong Mountain, towering to the east, harmonized with the southern flow of the river while the county’s geography sloped from north to south. They believed that “Midu is like a boat; building a tower would enhance its shape and strength,” aiming to promote cultural prosperity and seek divine assistance for success in examinations. They wished to merge their devotion to Buddhism with aspirations for secular honors.
Geomancers predicted that Midu would gather vitality and talent, and indeed, Wenbi Pagoda stands like a towering pen, inspiring cultural growth and fostering educational development. From the Ming to the Qing dynasties, Midu experienced a flourishing literary atmosphere, producing numerous talented individuals, highlighting the coexistence of cultural richness and local governance.
Address
Huilong Mountain, Midu County, Dali Prefecture, Yunnan Province (云南省大理州弥渡县回龙山)
How to Get There
To reach Wenbi Pagoda, visitors can take a bus or drive from Dali City (大理市) to Midu County. The journey takes approximately 1 to 1.5 hours. Follow signs toward Huilong Mountain, and once in the area, look for the pagoda atop the mountain.
Travel Tips
- Best Time to Visit: Spring and autumn are ideal for comfortable weather and clear views.
- Local Cuisine: Sample local dishes in Midu, such as Yunnan rice noodles and various mushroom dishes.
- Photography: Bring a camera to capture the stunning landscape and architectural details of the pagoda.
- Respect Local Customs: Engage respectfully with the local community and cultural practices.
- Plan Ahead: Check the local weather and travel advisories before visiting to ensure a smooth experience.
Wenbi Pagoda is not just a historical site but a testament to the cultural heritage of Midu County, making it a significant destination for visitors interested in history and architecture.
