Xiaguan Tuocha
Yunnan Tuo Tea, also known as Xiguan Tuo Tea下关沱茶, originated in Xiguan, Yunnan, which is why it is sometimes called Xiguan Tuo Tea. This tea has a long production history, with early records in the Ming Dynasty (1368–1644) mentioning it in Xie Zhaozhi’s book “Dian Lue,” which described it as a common tea used by both scholars and commoners, steamed and shaped into cakes. Tuo tea is one of the oldest tea products from Yunnan, having been popular both within and outside the province for many years. The modern shape of Yunnan Tuo Tea was developed in the 28th year of the Guangxu era (1902) and has a history of over a hundred years. It evolved from the so-called “girl tea” (also known as private tea) from Jinggu County in the Simao region. The production process of Xiguan Tuo Tea began in 1902, with the establishment of the “Yongchangxiang” brand by Yan Zizhen from Dali Xizhou, Jiangxi merchant Peng Yongchang, and Beicheng merchant Yang Hongchun. They commercially refined and inherited traditional tea-making techniques. The modern shape of Yunnan Tuo Tea, resembling a bowl, was continuously improved upon from the “girl tea” to become its current form.
Overview
Introduction
Origin By the late Qing Dynasty, the Yunnan tea market had gradually shifted to Xiguan, where transportation was more convenient and industrial development was advanced. Tea merchants in Xiguan, such as Yongchangxiang and Fuchun, transformed the traditional tea cakes into bowl-shaped Tuo tea, which was then transported from Kunming to Chongqing, Xufu (now Yibin), Chengdu, and other places in Sichuan Province, hence also known as Xufu tea.
Features Yunnan Tuo Tea is made from high-quality tea leaves produced in over 30 counties in Yunnan Province, including Lincang, Baoshan, and Simao. The initial processing involves manual揉制 (kneading) and machine pressing, resulting in a bowl-shaped tea with an elegant appearance. The tea is dark and glossy, with a fresh and fragrant aroma. The tea liquor is orange-yellow and clear, with a mellow and refreshing taste that leaves a pleasant aftertaste. Regular consumption is believed to have health benefits such as improving vision, calming the mind, enhancing beauty, and possessing antibacterial and therapeutic properties. Internationally, it is referred to as “weight-loss tea,” “beauty tea,” and “longevity tea.”
In China, Xiguan Tuo Tea is honored alongside Yunnan Baiyao and Yunyan as one of the “Three Treasures of Central Yunnan.”
Dali is a key region in western Yunnan where the “Tea Horse Road” and “Shu Body Poison Road” intersect, creating a unique commercial and cultural fusion of Central Plains, Southeast Asia, South Asia, and West Asia cultures. This historical crossroads makes Dali a city rich in diverse cultural influences, and it is also the production area of the renowned Xiguan Tuo Tea.
Brewing Method of Xiguan Tuo Tea
- Choosing a Teapot: Use a teapot with good heat retention, slightly larger than those used for oolong tea, which will work better.
- Amount of Tea: Control the amount of tea used, which is crucial for brewing Xiguan Tuo Tea.
- Brewing Tuo Tea: Pouring with fine water at a high level will reduce the acidity, but if the flavor is lost, cooling might also diminish the desired taste.
- Timing for Pouring: For example, if the second brew has a good aroma, use boiling water for the third brew. Adjust according to the required temperature.
- Post-Brewing Care: After brewing, leave some water in the pot, open the lid for about half a minute to a minute before closing it again. For teas with strong astringency, bitterness, or sourness, open the lid and, when there is no steam, touch the pot to check if it’s not too hot to touch for five seconds before closing the lid. Leaving some water helps dissolve the tea elements. Control the temperature carefully.
- Tightly Compressed Tea: In tightly compressed teas (such as Tuo tea, cakes, and bricks), after a certain number of brews, the tea generally expands. Be cautious as loosening it might lead to a less concentrated, more stimulating taste.
- Flavor Issues: When it comes to flavor, it’s not just about concentration. To extract a rich taste, you need proper “soaking time.”
Features of Xiguan Tuo Tea
Xiguan Tuo Tea uses Yunnan large-leaf sun-dried green tea as its primary raw material. The traditional production process involves several steps: ingredient preparation, sifting, sorting, weighing, steaming, rolling, pressing into shape, shaping, bag removal, drying, and packaging. Despite its relatively simple process with only a dozen or so steps, it represents a traditional skill of the ethnic minorities in China. During processing, the principles of “fine tea refined, coarse tea finely processed, and refined extraction” are followed, creating a unique processing style.
Among these steps, the pressing process is a key technical aspect. Before 1953, pressing was done manually, which was time-consuming and labor-intensive. Later, a wooden bench with concave and convex molds was used to press the tea, utilizing the lever principle. After pressing, the tea was placed in cloth bags to cool. Once shaped, the cloth bags were removed, and the tea was placed on wooden frames to dry, completing the pressing process. These skills were mainly passed down orally, and mastering them requires long-term practice and experience.
Xiguan Tuo Tea is divided into two types: Sheng Tuo (raw Tuo) and Pu Tuo (ripe Tuo). Sheng Tuo refers to unfermented Tuo tea, while Pu Tuo is fermented.
Sheng Tuo Tea has a round and full shape, with tightly curled and clear tea leaves that have an oily sheen. The dry tea has a subtle orchid fragrance, and when brewed, it exudes floral aromas. When the cup cools, it gives off a honeyed orchid scent, with a wild mountain taste. The tea liquor is orange-yellow and clear; the taste is rich and smooth, with a long-lasting tea fragrance and a full, delicate mouthfeel. It has excellent resilience and brewing endurance, with a prolonged sweet aftertaste and a lingering finish. The tea leaves are thick, tender, and glossy.
Pu Tuo Tea is quite different from Sheng tea as it undergoes artificial pile fermentation, resulting in distinct internal qualities and flavors. Pu Tuo Tea has a bowl-shaped appearance, with a beautiful form. It is dark and glossy, showcasing buds. The tea liquor is bright orange-yellow and emits a strong tea aroma. The taste is refreshing, with a thick, sweet water flavor and minimal bitterness. The tea leaves are thick and elastic.
Grades of Xiguan Tuo Tea can be classified into Special Grade, Grade A, Grade B, and Grade C. The differences between grades mainly lie in the choice of materials. The grade represents the quality of the tea buds. High-grade buds are tender and used for Special Grade Tuo Tea; medium-grade buds are from young leaves used for Grade A Tuo Tea; and low-grade buds are from coarse, older leaves used for Grade B and C Tuo Tea.
Grade A Tuo Tea is the oldest and largest production product of Xiguan Tea Factory. It has been produced since 1951 and is still in production today. Grade A Tuo Tea has a height of about 4.3 cm and a diameter of about 8.3 cm, with the most common specification being 100 grams. Early packaging used the Zhongcha trademark, and after 1991, it switched to the Songhe trademark.
The age of Grade A Tuo Tea can be determined by factors such as weight, shape, packaging material quality, and printing. Before 1993, it was wrapped in glossy yellow paper with a pattern. Around 1992, it changed to non-glossy patterned yellow paper, and from 1997, it began using a green food label. Early packaging was often five-piece brown paper tubes, with deluxe packaging in single-piece boxes. After 2000, the packaging material was changed to laminated paper bags.
Grade B Tuo Tea and Grade C Tuo Tea were developed to address the backlog of lower-grade tea. Grade B Tuo Tea was introduced in 1988 and later renamed to Grade A Tuo Tea based on consumer acceptance. These two names are often used interchangeably. The tea has a specification of 100 grams, with a height of about 4.1 cm and a diameter of about 8.2 cm. Early packaging used the Zhongcha trademark, and after 1993, it switched to the Songhe trademark.
Grade C Tuo Tea and Popular Tuo Tea were also developed to solve the issue of lower-grade tea stock. Grade C Tuo Tea was produced starting in 1988 and later renamed to Popular Tuo Tea. It has a specification of 100 grams, with a height of about 4.1 cm and a diameter of about 8.2 cm. Early packaging used the Zhongcha trademark, and after 1993, it switched to the Songhe trademark.
Special Grade Tuo Tea was produced in response to merchant orders in 2003. It has a specification of 100 grams, with a height of about 4.3 cm and a diameter of about 8 cm, using the Songhe trademark. The packaging includes both laminated paper bags and single-piece boxes.
When brewing Xiguan Tuo Tea, it is recommended to use a Yixing clay teapot, which retains heat well and helps the tea leaves gradually unfold, enhancing their characteristics. Before brewing, preheat the teapot and rinse the tea leaves. The rinse can be longer to allow the tea leaves to open up. Pour water slowly, gently, and steadily to ensure even dissolution of the tea’s components. The first eight infusions can be enjoyed immediately, while later infusions can have extended brewing times. Xiguan Tuo Tea has health benefits and is suitable for long-term consumption.
