Yiliang Roast Duck in Kunming

Yiliang Roast Duck (宜良烤鸭) is a classic and traditional delicacy of Yunnan cuisine, with a history spanning over 600 years. Together with Beijing Roast Duck (北京烤鸭), it is known as one of the two great roast duck traditions of China, representing the southern and northern styles. Its characteristics are crispy skin, tender meat, and an aromatic flavor that easily separates from the bone. Yiliang Roast Duck combines the southern closed-oven roasting technique with the local ingredients of Yunnan, and it has been recognized as a Yunnan Provincial Intangible Cultural Heritage .

📜 Origins and History

🏯 Ming Dynasty Imperial Chef Theory (Mainstream)

During the Hongwu period of the Ming Dynasty, it is said that the imperial chef Li Haoying (李海英), also known as “Li Roast Duck (李烧鸭),” accompanied Zhu Yuanzhang’s army to the south. After the campaign, he settled in Yiliang (宜良) and opened the Dianyi Roast Duck Shop (滇宜烧鸭店). His techniques have been passed down through 28 generations.

🏛️ Qing Dynasty Technique Improvement Theory

In the 27th year of the Guangxu Emperor (1901), Liu Wen (刘文), the servant of Yiliang scholar Xu Shi (许实), learned the closed-oven technique at Laobianyi Fang (老便宜坊) in Beijing. Upon returning home, he innovated by using pine needles as fuel and reed stems for support. He founded Zhibin Garden (质彬园), which received commendation from the Yunnan provincial government.

🔥 Distinctive Preparation and Roasting Technique

🥚 Duck Selection and Preparation

The choice of duck is critical:

• Dian Ma Duck (滇麻鸭), a local breed raised on grain and mountain herbs, is prized for its lean meat and delicate flavor.

• Ducks weigh around 1 kg, smaller than the plump Beijing variety, giving Yiliang Roast Duck a lighter, more refined taste.

Preparation Steps:

1. Scalding: The duck is quickly dipped in boiling water to loosen the skin.

2. Inflation: Air is blown between the skin and the meat to separate them, creating the signature crispy crust.

3. Honey Coating: The skin is brushed with a glaze made from Yunnan wild honey mixed with pork fat, a distinctive technique that differs from Beijing’s malt syrup.

4. Sealing: A reed stem (5 cm long) is inserted into the cavity to seal in juices and aromas.

5. Drying: The duck is air-dried for 8–12 hours, allowing the honey glaze to set.

🌲 Closed-Oven Pine Needle Roasting

Yiliang Roast Duck is famous for pine needle roasting, which imparts a subtle grassy aroma not found in any other roast duck.

Roasting Highlights:

• Roasted in a sealed mud oven (焖炉), not an open flame.

• The oven is fueled by bundles of dried pine needles and pine charcoal, producing clean, fragrant heat.

• The duck is suspended on hooks, rotated by hand every few minutes to ensure even browning and caramelization.

• It takes about one hour to roast, after which the skin turns deep amber-red and becomes crackling-crisp.

🧂 Three Roasting and Three Stewing (三烤三焖)

Some of the most traditional shops still follow a “Three Roasting Three Stewing” method:

• The duck is roasted, then stewed in its own fat, then roasted again—repeating this cycle three times over up to 72 hours.

• This process creates an extra-thin skin (0.3 mm) that separates effortlessly from the juicy meat.

👅 Flavor and Serving Style

✨ Look, Feel, Taste

• Color: Shiny golden-red skin resembling polished jujube.

• Texture: Crispy but delicate, shattering between the teeth.

• Taste: Rich yet refreshing—fatty but never greasy, lightly smoky, and subtly sweet.

🥢 Traditional Condiments

Unlike Beijing Roast Duck, which is wrapped in pancakes, Yiliang Roast Duck is eaten more simply:

• Spiced salt: A savory blend to enhance umami.

• Sweet bean sauce: For a mellow counterpoint to the crispy skin.

• Fresh scallions: Adding a burst of freshness.

🧊 Modern Variations

Some restaurants have created innovative accompaniments such as:

• Matsutake Duck Rolls: Incorporating Yunnan wild mushrooms.

• Duck Fat Ice Cream: A contemporary twist on duck fat’s creamy richness.

📍 Where to Taste Authentic Yiliang Roast Duck

🦆 In Yiliang County (宜良县)

Located about 30–40 km from Kunming, Yiliang is the spiritual home of this dish.
Recommended spots include:

• Li Ji Roast Duck (李记烤鸭): 600-year-old heritage brand, famous for crispy skin and complimentary duck soup.

• Xu Yong Roast Duck (徐勇烤鸭): Known for snow-white bones and delicate meat.

• Goujie Lao Yang (狗街老杨): A local favorite with consistently high reviews.

🏙️ In Kunming City (昆明市)

You can also find excellent versions in Kunming:

• Xuecheng Restaurant (学成饭店): Provincial heritage certification, popular with tour groups.

• Fugang Roast Duck (福刚烤鸭): Daily fresh roast in the afternoon, sells out quickly.

• Lihua Roast Duck (丽华烤鸭): Known for meticulous preparation and takeout options.

🏯 Yiliang Roast Duck vs. Beijing Roast Duck

Aspect	Yiliang Roast Duck (宜良烤鸭)	Beijing Roast Duck (北京烤鸭)
Origin	Yunnan Province (云南省)	Beijing (北京)
Fuel	Pine needles, pine charcoal	Fruitwood (jujube/pear)
Oven Type	Closed mud oven	Open brick oven
Glaze	Yunnan honey and pork fat	Malt syrup and vinegar
Duck Breed	Dian Ma Duck (滇麻鸭)	Beijing White Duck (北京填鸭)
Flavor	Subtle grassy aroma	Strong smoky sweetness
Serving Style	No pancake, eaten with salt and sauce	Wrapped in pancake with cucumber and sauce

🧭 How to Plan Your Visit

🚌 Best Time to Eat

• Ducks are typically roasted fresh each morning, with the first batches ready by 10–11 a.m.

• Many shops close once the day’s ducks are sold out—reserve early if you’re coming from Kunming.

🚗 Transportation

• By car: About 1 hour from Kunming to Yiliang County.

• Tour packages: Some Stone Forest day tours include a stop for roast duck lunch.

✨ Why It’s Unmissable

Yiliang Roast Duck is a living piece of culinary history, preserving ancient techniques in modern times.
Whether you are a foodie, a culture lover, or simply curious, this dish is an essential part of understanding Yunnan’s rich food traditions.