Yu Xinzhi – Inheritor of Lisu Ethnic Costume-making Skill in Weixi County, Diqing 

Yu Xinzhi (余信芝), born in 1954, is a female member of the Lisu ethnic group (傈僳族) from Tongle Village (同乐村), Yezhi Town (叶枝镇), Weixi Lisu Autonomous County (维西傈僳族自治县), Diqing Prefecture (迪庆州). Gifted and curious since childhood, she developed a deep interest in traditional Lisu weaving, embroidery, and textile crafts. Through years of dedicated learning and practice, she became an expert in traditional Lisu costume-making. As a cultural inheritor, she has trained many students, including Yu Fangzhi (余方芝), passing on the costume-making craft to the next generation. Under her guidance, many young girls in the village have also begun to learn the “Amu Sulu” (阿目数吕) weaving technique.

Cultural Activities

Yu Xinzhi actively participates in local ethnic cultural events to showcase the beauty of Lisu attire. The traditional male and female Lisu costumes she created have been collected and preserved in the Diqing Prefecture Museum (迪庆州博物馆), highlighting their cultural and artistic value.

Intangible Heritage Recognition

In 2000, she was honored with the title of “Folk Art Master” by the Yunnan Provincial Government (云南省政府), the Department of Culture (省文化厅), and the Ethnic and Religious Affairs Commission (省民委). In 2002, she was officially recognized by the Yunnan Provincial Department of Culture as a representative inheritor of the second batch of provincial-level intangible cultural heritage projects.

Craft Characteristics

Lisu costume-making techniques retain original and traditional processes while benefiting from the innovations of generations of artisans. The weaving craft has evolved from single-layer to double-layer fabric, which experts have classified as a form of brocade (“锦”). Yu Xinzhi excels in crafting “Amu Sulu” (阿目数吕), a type of decorative accessory made from wheat straw, and in designing costumes for “Achimu Gua” (阿尺木刮) performances.

Challenges Faced

Despite Yu Xinzhi’s remarkable contributions to preserving Lisu costume-making traditions, several challenges remain:

Raw Material Shortages

Due to national regulations prohibiting the cultivation of hemp, access to traditional raw materials is limited.

Difficulty in Passing Down Techniques

The dyeing process involved in traditional costume-making is complex, labor-intensive, and time-consuming. Fewer and fewer people possess the skills required for traditional dyeing techniques.

Lack of Interest Among Younger Generations

In today’s fast-paced society, younger people show little interest in wearing traditional ethnic clothing, let alone learning how to make it.

Cultural Contribution

Through teaching apprentices, participating in cultural events, and innovating her designs, Yu Xinzhi (余信芝) has successfully passed on and promoted the craft of Lisu costume-making. Her efforts have made a significant impact on the protection and development of this intangible cultural heritage.

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