Cross-stitch Skill of Yi Ethnic Minority in Shilin County, Kunming

Yi ethnic (Sani) embroidery, known in the Yi language as “Na Wo” (拿窝), meaning “unfinished flower,” is a traditional and highly decorative craft. Recognized as a national-level intangible cultural heritage, this unique form of embroidery has been passed down through generations within the Sani community of the Yi ethnic group in Shilin County (石林县), Kunming, Yunnan Province. The craft is an essential part of their cultural identity, characterized by intricate patterns and vibrant colors that reflect the ethnic group’s rich history, values, and beliefs.

Bi Yueying (毕跃英), a leading figure in preserving this craft, is the fifth-generation national inheritor of Sani embroidery. In 2016, she founded the Sani Embroidery Heritage Workshop in Shilin County (石林县), which became the first non-material cultural heritage embroidery workshop in the area. This milestone marked a new chapter in the preservation and promotion of the Sani embroidery tradition, modernizing it while respecting its cultural roots.

The Role of the Sani Embroidery Workshop

Reviving Traditional Embroidery through Modern Design

The Sani embroidery tradition has long been applied to clothing, often used in elaborate patterns for garments such as robes, skirts, and headwear, and occasionally for home décor. However, for the craft to survive in modern society and remain relevant to younger generations, it must evolve.

Qian Qianman (钱茜蔓), a long-time apprentice of Bi Yueying (毕跃英), has been studying Sani embroidery for five years. She believes that for the art to continue thriving, it must be integrated into daily life. “After joining the workshop, I designed a series of modern handmade products like storage boxes, jewelry, and other small objects for everyday use. These products combine the beauty of traditional embroidery with the practicality needed for modern life,” said Qian.

Merging Tradition with Innovation

When designing products, the workshop emphasizes a balance between “keeping the craft alive” and “innovating for the future.” Traditional motifs and color schemes are preserved while incorporating new, creative designs to keep the embroidery relevant to contemporary tastes.

Qian elaborated, “In product design, we focus on both ‘keeping the craft’ and ‘innovating.’ We add innovative designs while maintaining traditional patterns and color combinations. This fusion of old and new results in products that are both functional and stylish.”

Each product is crafted by hand, using patterns that are inspired by Bi Yueying’s (毕跃英) large-scale works. These patterns, originally designed for clothing, are transformed into modern items, such as fashionable bags, pillows, and home decor, resulting in highly marketable cultural products. The workshop’s products are not only decorative but also serve as a bridge between the past and present.

Craftsmanship and Legacy

Bi Yueying’s Dedication to Craftsmanship

Bi Yueying (毕跃英) is a true master of the Sani embroidery craft, known for her commitment to preserving its artistry while also fostering innovation. She has dedicated her life to perfecting the techniques of this traditional embroidery form. “Bi Yueying (毕跃英) is a master embroiderer, meticulous and dedicated to every detail. She checks each embroidery product with great care, ensuring that the traditional techniques are upheld,” Qian stated.

Bi’s (毕跃英) role in the workshop goes beyond simply creating beautiful pieces—she also mentors a new generation of embroiderers. Her apprentices, who learn from her, are expected to adhere to high standards in both skill and craftsmanship. Through her strict oversight and careful nurturing of her students, Bi ensures that the art of Sani embroidery is passed down with integrity.

The Unique Nature of Each Piece

One of the unique aspects of Sani embroidery is that each piece is hand-stitched, meaning no two are exactly alike. “Every cultural product is one of a kind,” Qian explained. “Each stitch carries the individual style and mindset of the embroiderer, which results in slight variations in the final product. This is part of what makes Sani embroidery so special.”

These subtle differences in each piece contribute to the charm and uniqueness of Sani embroidery. Each item, whether it’s a bag, pillow, or piece of jewelry, tells a story through the hands that made it and the traditions it embodies.

Achievements and Development

Expanding Cultural Products and Market Reach

Since its establishment, the Sani Embroidery Heritage Workshop has seen rapid growth. The variety of cultural products offered by the workshop has expanded to over 30 different items, ranging from traditional clothing and home decor to modern accessories. The workshop’s sales have increased annually, with this year’s total surpassing 40,000 yuan. This growth reflects a wider appreciation for the craft and the increasing demand for modern, wearable art.

In addition to producing and selling products, the workshop also serves as a training center for aspiring embroiderers and a research base for university students. Over 100 professional teams from both domestic and international organizations have visited the workshop to learn about the art of Sani embroidery. The workshop has thus become an important platform for educating the public about this unique craft.

The workshop is not only a center for production but also a space for cultural exchange, where visitors from all over the world can witness the intricate process of embroidery and gain insight into the cultural significance of the craft.

Looking Towards the Future

The workshop’s future plans focus on further integrating modern design elements with the timeless techniques of Sani embroidery. “We will continue to create more practical and fashionable Yi (Sani) embroidery products that meet modern aesthetic and market demands,” Qian said. “We want to explore how to express the unique characteristics of Sani embroidery through a limited range of products, while ensuring they remain functional and trendy.”

By blending traditional craftsmanship with modern sensibilities, the workshop aims to expand its influence and continue to innovate while maintaining its cultural roots.

Integration of Intangible Heritage with Modern Life

Innovation and Cultural Fusion

The Sani Embroidery Heritage Workshop has successfully integrated the ancient art of Sani embroidery with contemporary aesthetics, creating a fusion of tradition and modernity. The workshop’s innovative designs have infused new life into this traditional craft, allowing it to be appreciated by a broader audience. By adopting new methods of presenting the embroidery—such as fashion accessories and home decor items—the workshop has made the craft more accessible and relevant to the modern world.

Through this fusion, Sani embroidery has not only been preserved but has also been revitalized, ensuring that it continues to evolve in response to changing times and tastes. The workshop’s commitment to blending traditional craftsmanship with modern design has not only introduced a new audience to the beauty of Sani embroidery but has also contributed to the sustainability of this cultural heritage.

Impact on Cultural Tourism

The success of the Sani Embroidery Heritage Workshop has had a positive impact on Shilin County’s (石林县) cultural tourism industry. The workshop has become a key attraction, drawing both domestic and international tourists interested in learning about Yi (Sani) embroidery. It has helped to promote the county’s rich cultural heritage while simultaneously contributing to the local economy through the sale of embroidered products and the hosting of cultural workshops and events.

The blending of intangible cultural heritage with modern products has made Sani embroidery a symbol of Shilin County’s (石林县) unique cultural identity. The continued success of the workshop promises to open new opportunities for the preservation of traditional arts while fostering growth in the region’s cultural tourism sector.

Through this innovative approach, the workshop has shown how ancient crafts can be revitalized in the modern world, ensuring that they continue to thrive for generations to come.