Hiking Tour Tips for Shaxi in Jianchuan County of Dali
The valley floor of Shaxi is surrounded by the remnants of fruit and nut orchards that are great for exploring on short day hikes. Some of the most rewarding are on the lower slopes of Huacongshan at the rear of Duan Village. Just north of the community is the Donghuang Temple, restored in 2004 by a Taiwanese benefactor, with glorious views across the valley to Diantou and beyond. Just above this, an enormous pair of Acacias are the largest landmark around, and a food starting point for relatively easy strolls up into the pear orchards and long avenues of chestnut trees. Sheltered groves of lofty pines make great spots for picnic lunches before venturing along the mule trails, amid fields of soy, chilies and red sorghum. Following some of the many concrete water courses installed by the China Tobacco Company, it is only thirty minutes though apple brakes and corn fields to a deep cut gorge, where water cascades down from the peaks in a year round torrent of mini waterfalls and cataracts. From here, the hardy can continue hiking along the slopes to discover shepherds’ huts and mountain god shrines, while the rest of us, head back down through the ancient oak grove, and back to the Old Temple Theater for a well earned afternoon nap.
Of course, hiking is not the only option for adventure in Shaxi. The young at heart will find tree climbing opportunities in abundance, while two wheel fans can complete a tour of the many picturesque villages in the area. There are unexplored caves up at Shibaoshan, although the less adventurous like myself might prefer to interact with the many different domestic animals that are encountered everyday, observing, feeding and relaxing on their turf, a million miles away from the stresses and strains of big city life.
Guided Hiking from Old Theatre Inn or Pear Orchard Temple
Red Rock Expeditions
For the more hardcore travelers, Red Rock Expeditions organize extensive horse treks along the many sub branches of the Tea Horse trails. Operator Edward Jocelyn, has a well earned reputation as a modern day explorer in China, being one of the very few to have walked the entirety of the historic Long March trek.
Starting in either Lijiang or Dali, Ed and his muleteers escort the intrepid across the many Tea Horse threads that surround the valley of Shaxi. Highlights include camping under the stars at Qingyuandong, where the crystal clear pool is fed from above by a cave spring, Fengyu market, Cibi Lake and the sea of rice paddies at Songhe. Ed works with veteran outdoor specialist Yang Xiao, and together they use local pack animals and muleteers to traverse some of the most spectacular routes in the area, visiting locations that are unlikely to ever be featured in an mainstream guidebook. Even so it is hoped that in time The Tea Horse routes will become as popular as the Appalachian Trail in the eastern United States, and the Bibbulmun Track in Western Australia.
沙溪周边有很多白族村落适合徒步前往探访,如果有时间,可以选择以下5条线路中的一条。
1、沙登箐线
从寺登街徒步到沙登菁单程3KM,约50分钟。这是一个神奇的山谷,有山涧的潺潺溪流、有“石头开花”的丹霞地貌、有广阔的蓝天和流云、有翠绿的松树及各式各样的野草野花……最让人惊喜的是,在这西南边陲地区无人问津的山中,竟然有五个建于唐宋时期的石窟,有茶马古道时期留下的红砂石马蹄印,还有一座被盗过多次的明朝古墓。
沙登菁石窟 by灵魂卷轴
2、城隍庙线
寺登街徒步到鳌凤,单程2KM,约35分钟。城隍庙建于清光绪十六年1890年,为一进两院带侧院的建筑群。周边有两百多株近百年的松柏。每年农历三月初三至初五,在此举办庙会。
3、华丛山线
从寺登街徒步到华丛山,单程15KM,约4小时。沙溪坝东面的华丛山是当地最大的彝族聚居区,开始路途平缓,继续前行会遇到乱石路,穿行于松林间。豁然开朗处,高原草甸景色“三大潭”映入眼帘。山里的彝族村寨依然保留着独特的民族服饰及文化传统,火把节很热闹。
4、马坪关线
从寺登街出发14KM到达,徒步需3小时40分钟,建议雇马帮前去。是明代以来设在沙溪盐务衙门至弥沙盐井之间的盐马古道上的关卡,为沙溪第一盐关。主要景观是村口巨枫、古戏台及山坳中的白族村寨。马坪关的蜂蜜也很地道,村里会有村民售卖。
春天的马坪关 图片来源于网络
5、段家登线
从寺登街徒步或骑自行车出发,沿黑潓江西侧向北,沿途山清水秀,四季农事轮作。3KM即可到达。村内现存有清道光年间建筑魁星楼带戏台一座,结构严谨,雕梁画栋,保存较好。