Ouyang Compound in Shaxi Old Town, Dali
Overview
Ouyang Compound (欧阳大院) in Shaxi Ancient Town (沙溪古镇), Jianchuan (剑川), Yunnan Province (云南省), stands out as one of the most distinctive ancient residences, built during the late Qing Dynasty (清朝). Nestled within the ancient street’s northern side at Sanjia Alley (三家巷), the compound features an ornate red sandstone gate that, despite the passage of time, retains its grandeur. This typical Bai (白族) architecture exemplifies the “Three Courtyards and One Screen Wall” (三坊一照壁) design, originally housing luxurious residences, shops, and stables, earning it the reputation of being a “five-star horse shop on the Tea Horse Road” (茶马古道).
Architectural Features
The spacious compound is adorned with intricate carvings and decorations. Every door, window, and eave showcases meticulous craftsmanship. The main hall’s six doors feature windows intricately carved with hundreds of the characters “福” (fortune) and “寿” (longevity), each written uniquely, making it a remarkable sight. The “Three Courtyards and One Screen Wall” is a traditional Bai residential style, where the owners infused their thoughts, aspirations, and interests into the home’s decor through couplets and calligraphy, reflecting the cultural richness of an era.
Cultural Significance
The cultural essence of Ouyang Compound begins right at the entrance. The poems inscribed on either side of the gate read:
“昼出耘田夜绩麻，村庄儿女各当家；童孙未解供耕织，也傍桑荫学种瓜。”
“问我归心向何处，三分周孔二分庄；过客不需频问询，读书声里是吾家。”
These verses reveal the owner’s reverence for traditional culture and yearning for pastoral life. The gate is further embellished with a couplet:
“欧脉钟灵地，阳光丽普天。”
This “embedded couplet” connects the characters to form “Ouyang Tian Di” (欧阳天地), subtly indicating the identity of the Ouyang family.
The gate’s sides feature carvings of a horse, sheep, tiger, and dog, each accompanied by inscriptions reflecting Confucian virtues of loyalty, filial piety, integrity, and righteousness.
Additional Features
Flanking the entrance are carvings depicting agricultural scenes and diligent study, symbolizing a family dedicated to farming and scholarship. Between the outer gate and the inner gate stands a grand screen wall adorned with landscape paintings depicting farming and scholarly life, along with the quote from Zhuzi’s Family Instructions (《朱子家训》):
“黎明即起、清扫庭院.”
The central inscription “六一家声” (Liujia Voice) signifies the family’s ancestral connection to Ouyang Xiu (欧阳修).
Ouyang Xiu, also known as the “Drunken Old Man” (醉翁), referred to himself as “Liuyi Jushi” (六一居士) in his later years. The screen wall once displayed a passage detailing his scholarly aspirations and lifestyle.
Living Quarters
The first courtyard serves as the owner’s living quarters, characterized by ornate carvings and spacious layout. The main hall features a wooden grid door inscribed with “百福百寿,” with each of the one hundred characters of “福” and “寿” uniquely crafted. The Ouyang family originally hails from Luling (庐陵) in Jiangxi Province (江西), with their ancestor Ouyang Ziqun being a prominent official during the Ming Dynasty (明代) who later settled in Jianchuan.
Over generations, this lineage became a distinguished family in Shaxi, with a descendant, Ouyang Jing (欧阳景), rising to prominence as the wealthiest horse merchant in the late Qing Dynasty, leading to the construction of this representative compound.
Adjacent to the main house is a kitchen, originally used by traveling horse caravans along the Tea Horse Road, which has preserved its original form.
Historical Artifacts
Over the years, the kitchen has accumulated historical artifacts, including a large stone stove, a red sandstone water tank, and utensils blackened by smoke. Flanking the courtyard are side rooms, with the northern side featuring a small garden that, alongside its neighboring side rooms, forms a quaint “Three Courtyards and One Screen Wall” compound originally intended for accommodating horse caravan merchants.
The courtyard also includes an ancient well made of red sandstone and a variety of plants, indicating the family’s agrarian roots. The wall features the inscription “瑞霭庐陵” (Auspicious Mist over Luling), connecting the Shaxi Ouyang family with the historical Ouyang family of Jiangxi.
The beautifully decorated wooden doors and windows of the side rooms are remarkable. The north side of the first-floor hall opens to the small garden, featuring a small stage designed for entertaining visiting merchants. After long journeys, merchants could enjoy performances from their rooms, enhancing their experience.
Stable and Additional Spaces
The third “Three Courtyards and One Screen Wall” courtyard served as the stable. Its two small doors provide direct access from the outer gate for merchants and their horses. The wall above features a painting of the “Monkey King” (美猴王) Sun Wukong, showcasing the owner’s wisdom in ensuring the safety of the merchants’ horses.
Visitors can ascend to the second floor to view the family’s shrine, intricately carved with dragons, phoenixes, lions, unicorns, and other motifs, demonstrating the exceptional craftsmanship of Jianchuan wood carving. The shrine also includes a glass sculpture gifted by the British East India Company, over a century old, illustrating the family’s historical significance.
Despite the passage of time, Ouyang Compound retains its essence as a vibrant, culturally rich legacy of the Tea Horse Road. The artistry in its carvings, paintings, and layout highlights the Bai ethnic group’s architectural mastery, serving as a precious cultural heritage.
Visiting Ouyang Compound
Visitors to the ancient street often find themselves drawn to Ouyang Compound, where they can sit quietly and absorb the profound cultural atmosphere, admiring the traditional Bai architecture. The residential structures in Shideng Street (寺登街) retain typical Bai features, with “Three Courtyards and One Screen Wall” and “Four Compounds and Five Courtyards” designs still evident.
How to Get There
To reach Ouyang Compound in Shaxi Ancient Town, you can take a bus from Dali (大理) to Jianchuan (剑川), then use local transport to the ancient town. The compound is located within the town and can be accessed on foot.
Travel Tips
- Best Time to Visit: March to May and September to November are ideal due to pleasant weather.
- Local Cuisine: Try local Bai dishes, such as “Three Courses of Tea” (三道茶) and Erhai Lake (洱海) grilled fish at nearby restaurants.
- Respect Local Customs: Be mindful of local traditions, especially during cultural performances.
- Photography: Most areas allow photography, but always check for restrictions, particularly during performances.
- Explore the Surroundings: Stroll through the ancient market streets and enjoy the historical ambiance.
